Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
evening sky like Christmas lights. Cruises start at dusk (around 5pm), when the sweltering
heat starts to burn off and animals emerge for some post-siesta prowling.
There is no accommodation in Klias, although Borneo Authentic can set you up with
one of its comfy rooms at the Tempurung Seaside Lodge nearby. Tourists can make their
own way to the row of private jetties 20km west of Beaufort, however, most trip-takers
usually sign-up for a hassle-free day trip from KK (which ends up being cheaper since
you're sharing transport).
GARAMA
Narrower than the river in Klias, the Sungai Garama is another popular spot for the popu-
lar river-cruise day trips from KK. Chances of seeing fireflies are slim, but Garama is just
as good as Klias (if not better) when it comes to primate life. Gangs of proboscis monkeys
and long-tailed macaques scurry around the surrounding floodplain offering eager tourists
plenty of photo fodder.
Like Klias, the tours here start at around 5pm (with KK departures at 2pm), and after a
couple of hours along the river, guests chat about the evening's sightings over a buffet
dinner before returning to KK. There are several operators offering Garama river tours;
we prefer
Only in Borneo
( 088-260506;
www.oibtours.com
; package tour RM190)
,
an offshoot of Traverse Tours. It has a facility along the shores of Sungai Garama and of-
fers an overnight option in prim dorms or double rooms.
It is technically possible to reach Garama with one's own vehicle, but the network of
unmarked roads can be tricky and frustrating. We recommend leaving early in the morn-
ing from KK if you want to get here on your own steam.
WESTON
The little village of Weston - a couple of shacks clustered around a gold-domed mosque -
is the jumping-off point for a gentle yet jungly patch of wetlands that is equal parts serene
and overgrown. The area was bombed beyond recognition during WWII, but recent con-
servation efforts have welcomed groups of curious proboscis monkeys into the tidal
marshlands, which are shaded by towering nipa palms and copses of spider-like man-
groves. As the tide rolls in and out, entire swaths of jungle are submerged and revealed.
Monkeys, monitor lizards, otters and mud skippers flash through the aquatic undergrowth,
and as the sun sets, clouds of flying foxes (ie
big
bats) flap in with the darkness.
