Travel Reference
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and are reluctant to recommend the Field Centre. Bear in mind: Danum is a jungle, and
you may spend your entire time without spotting wildlife, which is one of the main com-
plaints readers have sent us after staying in the following spots.
Borneo Rainforest Lodge $$$
(BRL; 088-267637, 089-880207; www.borneonaturetours.com ; d standard/deluxe
3-day, 2-night package RM2390/2690 per person) Borneo Rainforest Lodge is a class act
deep within the buzzing haze of Sabah's remaining old-growth forest. Want the experien-
ce of staying in an uber-luxurious chalet while keeping an eye peeled for an adorable tar-
sier? You're in luck. Go for the deluxe if you can; they have private jacuzzis on the
wooden verandahs that overlook the quiet ravine - romantic as hell. Honeymooners
should go for Kempas D11 - this room has a secluded jacuzzi in its own wooden pagoda.
Meals are taken on a beautiful terrace also fronting the river. We were pretty impressed
with the assortment of dishes at the buffet - especially since it all had to be lugged in by
4WD. The BRL's only downfall is its marketing strategy. Yes, the lodge is lovely and the
outdoor jacuzzis in the superior rooms are undoubtedly lavish, but this isn't a five-star re-
sort. And how could it be, surrounded by relentlessly encroaching jungle? We're im-
pressed, though, that this much luxury exists so deep in the rainforest. Guests who temper
their expectations will adore the ambience and find plenty of creature comforts at their
fingertips (no air-con though). It's best to book online or in KK.
RESORT
LODGE
Danum Valley Field Centre $$
(DVFC; 088-326300, 088-881688; rmilzah@gmail.com; resthouse r & board from
RM180, camping RM30; ) An outpost for scientists and researchers, the field centre
also welcomes tourists. Accommodation at the centre is organised into four categories:
hostel, resthouse, VIP and camping. We recommend the resthouse rooms, which are loc-
ated at arm's length from the canteen (the only place to eat). These rooms are basic but
clean, sporting ceiling fans and twin beds. Towels are provided for the cold-water
showers. The simple hostel is about a seven-minute walk from the canteen, and the
barracks-style rooms are separated by gender. If you want to camp, you can lay your
sleeping kit (no tent needed) out on the walkways - bug spray recommended! All build-
ings at the field centre run on generated power, which shuts off between midnight and
7am. There are no professionally trained guides at the centre - only rangers who can show
you the trails. You might luck out and find a friendly researcher who will point you in the
direction of a few cool things, but some of the scientists (especially the birders) value
their privacy (and can you blame them?). There is a kitchen on the campus, however it is
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