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and good, but the sleeping experience is lovely as well: swish but unpretentious long-
houses dotted into the jungle, situated around a lovely common space stuffed with gongs,
tiki torches and bubu (local fish traps), welcome guests after their riverine adventures.
Don't miss the 440m annotated boardwalk in the back that winds through the canopy.
Kinabatangan Riverside Lodge $$$
( 089-213502; www.sitours.com ; 2-day, 1-night package per two people US$315;
) Come here to fall gently asleep in a series of luxury chalets, adrift in simple white
sheets and polished wood floors, all connected by a series of shady raised walkways
through the jungle. A looping nature trail is out the back and an adorable dining area
abounds with stuffed monkeys, faux foliage and traditional instruments. It's managed by
SI Tours, which charges in US$.
LODGE
Barefoot Sukau Lodge $
( 089-237525; www.barefootsukau.com ; r RM250; ) Smiling staff direct you to
rooms that are small but covered with thick coats of white paint. Just outside Barefoot's
cute waterfront cafe is a series of slate-grey cliffs mottled with jungle, creeper and vines.
LODGE
Sukau Greenview B&B $
( 013-869 6922, 089-565266; http://sukaugreenviewbnb.zxq.net /; 2-day, 1-night pack-
age from RM330) This pleasant option offers rooms with twin-size beds in a small
cottage-style lodge. It's basic (the floors are made from particleboard) for the price.
B&B
BILIT
Bilit is a teeny-weeny village that is primarily full of friendly locals and homestays. River
lodges are located on both the Bilit side of the Kinabatangan River and the opposite bank.
There's a jetty from which boats depart to lodges on the other side of the river, and across
the street is a small yard where you can park a car if you drove; the family that owns the
house charges RM20 a day for the privilege. A small banana orchard acts as a magnet for
pygmy elephants, which a) are popular with tourists and b) have a bad habit of trampling
and eating local crops.
Nature Lodge Kinabatangan $$
( 088-230534, 013-863 6263; www.naturelodgekinabatangan.com ; 3-day, 2-night
package dm/chalet RM380/415) Located just around the river bend from Bilit, this charm-
ing jungle retreat is a decent choice for backpacker budgets. The campus of bungalows is
LODGE
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