Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Sandakan Archipelago
While everyone knows about the Semporna Archipelago, it seems hardly anyone wants to
visit the Sandakan Archipelago, off the coast of its namesake port. What gives? Don't like
fluffy specks of emerald sprouting like orchids out of the Sulu Sea, or seabound rock walls,
or tales of POW derring-do?
Although it's highly promoted by Sabah Tourism, we cannot recommend Turtle Islands
National Park at this time. The trip to watch green sea turtles lay eggs is, at best, ill-man-
aged, and at worst a circus. On any one night dozens of gawping tourists cluster round a
single laying turtle; this seems to have the effect of scaring some of the reptiles off. Allow-
ing visitors to handle baby turtles before releasing them is highly dubious. The illegal turtle
egg trade is certainly alive in Sandakan: we have personally seen turtle eggs for sale within
the city's markets, and while this activity is technically illegal, vendors weren't shy about
approaching us. That's the sort of adventure on offer in the Sandakan Archipelago.
PULAU LANKAYAN
Pulau Lankayan isn't just photogenic; it's your desktop screen saver. Water isn't supposed
to get this clear, nor sand this squeaky clean. A spattering of jungle, a few swaying
palms…sigh. No wonder so many lovers come here for their honeymoons, which are often
(but not necessarily) accompanied by dive expeditions at
Lankayan Island Resort
(
088-238113, 089-673999;
lankayan-island.com
; Batu 6; r RM3350/RM2728)
, the one ac-
commodation option on Lankayan. There are a couple dozen cabins dotted along the sand
where the jungle meets the sea, decked out in flowing light linens and deep tropical hard-
wood accents. Transfers from Sandakan are included in your accommodation.
PULAU BERHALA
Berhala is supremely serene, an exemplar of a rare genre: a lovely tropical island hardly touched by tourists. Sand-
stone cliffs rise above the Sulu Sea, hemming in quiet patches of dusty, sandy prettiness. The vibe is so sleepy it's
narcoleptic, an atmosphere accentuated by a quiet water village inhabited by fishing families, loads of migrating birds
(their presence is heaviest in October and November) and…well, OK. There's not a lot else, except some very big
rocks.
