Sabah - Borneo - page 152

a halo of colourful coral, about 25km off the coast of northwest Sabah (about 40km north-
west of Kota Belud).
Those on a budget - well, actually, anyone - should opt for the excellent Mari Mari
Backpackers Lodge ( 088-260501; www.riverbug.asia ; dm RM60, r RM80-175) , op-
erated by Riverbug. Guests are placed in raised stilt chalets pocketed around a white-sand
beach. The huts are a modern take on the thatch-longhouse theme, and a well executed
one at that. Diving and snorkelling activities feature high on the itinerary list, but this is
also a lovely tropical escape if you just want to chill.
PULAU BANGGI
If you want to fall off the map, get out to Pulau Banggi, which lies some 40km northeast
of Kudat. The Banggi people, known locally for their unusual tribal treehouses, are Sa-
bah's smallest indigenous group, and speak a unique non-Bornean dialect. The island is a
postcard-esque slice of sand, tropical trees and clear water, and is actually one of the
largest offshore islands in all of Malaysia.
Accommodation is provided by a small government resthouse (r RM40) and the mod-
est Banggi Resort ( 019-587 8078; r fan/air-con RM50/65, huts RM70; ) , which
can arrange boat trips and other activities. The small huts have kitchens and twin beds -
make sure you request the charming treehouse hut. This place can get fully booked on
weekends, so reserve in advance. At either location, ask staff about the trails that lead into
the small jungle interior of the island.
Kudat Express ( 088-328118; one-way RM15) runs a ferry between Kudat and the
main settlement on Pulau Banggi. It departs the pier (near the Shell station) at 9am and
2pm daily. In the reverse direction, it leaves Pulau Banggi daily at around 3pm.
LAYANG LAYANG
Some 300km northwest of Kota Kinabalu, Layang Layang is a tiny island that is surroun-
ded by a coral atoll. It's an exclusive dive location , and is well known among scubahol-
ics as part of the famous Borneo Banks. Thanks to its utter isolation, the reef here is
healthy and diverse. Although it may not be quite as colourful as the reef at Sipadan, it's
quite likely to be one of the most unspoilt bits of coral most divers have seen. There are
plenty of reef fish and reef sharks, as well as a with a healthy population of rays.
Please note: there is no decompression chamber at Layang Layang, so don't press your
luck while underwater. The resort only provides air - no nitrox. Trivia buffs may be
pleased to know Layang Layang is the only one of the remote Spratly Islands that receives
regular flights.