Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
park entrance (RM5, one hour). To go all the way to Ranau costs RM13 (the trip takes just
over an hour).
KUDAT
Despite being only a few hours from Kota Kinabalu, there's a dreamy, end-of-the-world
feeling in Kudat. Maybe it's the drowsy quality of the air; Malaysian towns don't get
much more laid-back and friendly than this. You can thank the local Rungus people.
Filipinos too - there's loads of them around.
Kudat is a quiet port that rewards a bit of initiative. The town itself is fairly unremark-
square and a
fish market
near the docks, but mainly this is a quiet place where it's nice to
potter about, smile at people and be smiled at. It's the country that leads up to the tip of
Borneo that you want to explore. There are miles and miles of beautiful beaches about,
some of which are excellent for surfing, while others are good for watching lonely cattle
and blood-red sunsets. The trick is finding these spots, as there's very little tourism infra-
structure to speak of.
You can disappear down side roads that lead to the ocean and see what you find - we
did and had a grand time, but we had our own wheels. We're purposely suggesting you do
it yourself as there is such unreliable road signage here, yet not too many roads. Trust us
when we say that with a little exploratory gusto you might find that mythical traveller pot
of gold: the hidden, untouched beach. Swing by
New Way Car Rental & Souvenir
Centre
( 088-625868; 40 Jln Lo Thien Chok)
if you want to explore the area under
your own steam. Staff can also book your accommodation on Pulau Banggi.
Sleeping & Eating
ECO-CAMP
Tampat Do Aman $
( 013-880 8395;
http://tampatdoaman.com
; r from RM30; )
Tampat Do Aman
means 'place of friends' in the local Rungus language. It's a fitting title; you'll be made to
feel welcome as hell here by Howard Stanton and his Rungus wife. The couple are com-
mitted to creating sustainable tourism in the area, and work with the local Rungus com-
munity to preserve some of Kudat's lovely beaches and stretches of jungle. Howard will
hook you up with bicycles and car rides out to some of the most isolated, lovely beaches
in Sabah - ask to see the honeymooners' point, or for tips on snorkeling spots. Tampat Do
Aman itself is a very rustic eco-camp, with fan-cooled basic thatch huts and longhouse,
