Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
PULAU MANUKAN
Mamutik is the smallest island out here, a mere 300m from end to end. A nice beach runs
up and down the east coast of the island , although it can get pretty kelp-y after bad weath-
er. Snorkelling here is pretty good, but you may want to avoid the shallow area; the coral
here will do a number on your bare feet. There's no resort, but camping (RM5 per person,
pay on arrival) is possible. There's a small store-restaurant-snorkel-rental place, but it's a
good idea to bring supplies.
PULAU SAPI
They should really rename Pulau Sapi (Cow Island) to Pulau Biawak (Monitor Lizard Is-
land). This little speck also offers snorkelling and attractive beaches, but Sapi can also get
very cramped with day-tripping families. The island is separated from Gaya by a very
shallow 200m channel that you can swim across if you feel up to it, but be careful; there
are definitely no life guards on duty. Otherwise, the main activities include wading, relax-
ing on the beach around the jetty or exploring the trails through the forest; it takes about
45 minutes to walk around the island. There are changing rooms, toilets, barbecue pits,
and a small snack kiosk, plus an outfitted campsite (RM5 per person), but you'll need to
bring most supplies from the mainland.
WATER MONITORING
If you look around the edge of the barbecue pits on Sapi, you may spot a fence cordoning off some of the jungle,
and at said fence you'll usually find a hissing band of great, grey-green dragons: water monitor lizards, known
locally as
biawak
. They're some of the largest reptiles in the world, with males averaging a length of 1.5m to 2m,
sometimes growing as large as 3m, weighing anywhere from 19kg to 50kg. Within the lizard family they are only
outstripped by Komodo Dragons.
These mini-Godzillas are found all over Malaysia, but on Pulau Sapi they are the king of the jungle - and the
waves. It's amazing watching these lumbering beasts take to the water, where they instantly transform into grace-
ful sea monsters reminiscent of aquatic dinosaurs (which, indeed, are believed to be the ancestors of monitor lizar-
ds). Despite their size, water monitors aren't apex predators in the vein of crocodiles or their Komodo Dragon
cousins. Instead, they serve the purpose of coyotes in North America, or jackals in Africa: adaptable, clever scav-
engers that seem to thrive, rather than suffer, when humans are near, making use of our refuse dumps as their lar-
ders.
Water monitors are awesome creatures, but don't be an idiot like some tourists and try to pose next to them or
hand feed them. Their mouths are filled with deadly bacteria and their claws can rip a gash in your flesh you
won't soon forget.
