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aPril 15
Trekking in the Arctic is the hardest thing I have ever done, and, when
you consider some of the things I've done, that's saying something.
I knew it would be tough, but not this tough. We're in the tent at the
moment and have finished dinner; I hope this night, here in the
warm tent, lasts and lasts. I don't want the morning to come, because
that means I'll have to climb out of my sleeping bag and brave the
-35 degree cold and bitter, freezing winds once more. I will put my
jacket on in the morning and it will be covered in ice a moment later.
At the end of every day, our gear and clothes are damp, and we try to
dry them out at night but it only takes a minute for ice to form on them.
Everything freezes instantly. You walk out onto the ice and straight-
away your hands, toes, nose and ears ache as if someone is applying a
Bunsen burner to them. It's excruciating.
We spent all day climbing and dragging our kayaks over wall after
wall of broken ice. I wasn't prepared for the immensity of and diffi-
culty presented by pressure ridges. Imagine you're in a scrap metal
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