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computer, thermos flasks and a kettle, in which we boil snow for the
thermos each day. And, of course, I have my trusty can of Milo, which
I mix with powdered milk and boiling water. Each morning, we load
everything from the tents, as well as the tents themselves, into the kay-
aks. Above the sleeping bags hang our boots, insulated clothing and
dry suit, which all have to be de-iced when we take them off and hung
up over the stove. The sleeping bags comprise three layers: an outside
layer to stop the snow coming in, an inside layer to prevent vapour
coming off your body and dampening the bag, and a sleeping layer
rated to keep you warm down to -45 degrees Celsius.
aPril 9
Since we set out, we have travelled almost 80 kilometres. This is just
about okay. Clambering over the pressure ridges is slowing us down,
as is Eric's insistence on frequent stops. Jose already has frostbite on
the end of three toes. He says it will be okay; he just has to find a way
to stop the ice from getting in his boots. A small mistake could prove
very costly here. I hope and pray each day that we make it through this.
Our food is strictly rationed each day. No matter how hungry we
are feeling, we can't eat more than our designated amount. If we do, it
won't last the distance. We also have to make sure that there is sufficient
spare in case we get held up, a possibility that is always on the cards.
Today we saw our first polar bear prints. A bear had passed this
way a day before. The prints were enormous and I could make out the
pads and claws. I gave a shudder, and I wasn't the only one.
This trek is the most painful thing I have ever done. The tempera-
ture is -36 degrees with strong winds. God help us.
aPril 10
Today has been a reasonably good day, but we got off to a slow start.
Apart from the fact that it hurts, the cold makes everything so much
harder. Just doing up a zipper or a buckle takes ages, meaning that it's
a major job getting dressed in the morning. My jacket is frozen solid
and covered in ice: I was cold right from the start of the day, and noth-
ing has improved.
Going to the loo is a major concern. Many of the children who
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