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by wearing colourful skull masks, making elaborate altars and cele-
brating in their homes and in the cemeteries where their loved ones
are buried. They eat local delicacies, including barbecued meats and
a particular kind of bread that is known as pan de muerto , or 'bread of
the dead'. I have run past many such gatherings in the last few days.
The Peruvians also hold vigils by the roadside where traffic accidents
have claimed those close to them. Considering the way people drive
here, it comes as no surprise to me that I've seen hundreds of these
memorials along my route. I've been bumped into by taxis on a few
occasions here; the drivers seem to take offence that I'm running on
their roads.
I'm on the outskirts of Lima, 79 kilometres from the city, and will
arrive there tomorrow. I'm so close, but all around me are sugarcane
fields, desolate slums and people living in poverty. Usually, this close
to a capital city, I'd be seeing suburbs, high rise, industry, and a bit of
wealth.
I'm still doing 90 kilometres a day; the only time I couldn't keep
up this rate was when the cops made us stop early. As I've said,
I'm planning to bump up my distance to 95 kilometres a day and
maybe more if the conditions in Chile, the next country we enter, are
favourable.
I was disappointed today to receive a text from Greg saying that
he won't be able to make our meeting in Lima, although he says he'll be
flying down soon afterwards. I'm aware that there's not much money
left in the kitty. I pray for a donation or 50.
The best thing about today was the big plate of lasagne that Katie
made me for dinner. It's weird and humbling to realise that no one in
the history of the world has ever run as far as I am running every day
for so many, many months.
november 4
We have spent the day in Lima, and what a busy day it's been. Getting
into the city was the usual bunfight caused by madcap traffic—cars
came at me like wild animals—and confusing streets. We made it to
the Australian embassy, where I was guest speaker at the Australian
Trade Commission's Australia Business Club function. Australian
business leaders in Peru, from such companies as Qantas and BHP,
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