Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The Darién can be divided into four sections—swamps, rivers,
mountains and coast. Today was all about river crossings and moun-
tains. We had flash floods, and the rain did not stop.
At one point, I heard loud gunfire, and, fearing there was a fire-
fight between my soldiers and FARC guerrillas, I investigated. A short
way ahead I found the bullet-riddled carcass of a large snake. Two sol-
diers had passed it and it had left them alone, but when a third soldier
had walked by, the snake had reared up savagely, hissing and snapping
its fangs. The soldier drew, aimed and blasted the critter.
We camped on a steep slope, because our original camp spot
beside the river was flooded; I spent all night pushing my tent back
up the hill. My feet are badly swollen, and my hands are sore from the
spikes and prickles of the bush. Every time I sit down, some insect or
other jungle creature bites me on the arse. I'm spending a lot of time
standing up.
sePtember 27
It's raining heavily again. Today we crossed the mountains, and we
are now on the northern, Caribbean Sea side of Panama. We are fol-
lowing a river to the beach. I'm hoping that the rain doesn't get any
heavier, certainly not as heavy as yesterday, because if the river swells
and overflows again it will cost me time and maybe my life. The water
charges down the mountain like an out-of-control train. I've been say-
ing prayers as I listen to the thunder.
Everything is wet. Tonight I am cold and shivering and very, very
tired. The soldiers wanted to take it easier, but I stressed that this is a
race, and I drove them on. Like it was on the ice, it is hard for people
around me to understand the urgency.
The Darién is home to spider monkeys, white-faced monkeys and
howler monkeys, which bellow like gorillas and yell at us through huge
sharp teeth as we pass. I've seen masses of brilliantly hued macaws
and toucans. There are also many venomous snakes.
My special bodyguard, Sergeant Villa, and another officer, Lieu-
tenant Pirez, continue to stay close. They're still nearby as I write this,
and they constantly ask if I am okay. These people are great.
Another soldier in the group reminds me of my brother Tony. Every
chance he gets, he wets a fishing line in the river and usually catches a
