Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
ger in transit was a fragrance or a stench. Well publicized by the press of the
Nation, the duel ended when a decision was reached which held that Limburger
merely exercised its constitutional right to hold its own against all comers.
PAOLI
Before reaching Green County, you pass through some ready-made Sunday drive country
and charming towns, including the quaintest of them all, Paoli. Known mostly for its som-
nolent waterside small-town appeal, and now, due to its renovated, grand 1864 Paoli Mill,
it'sfullofshops,galleries,andarelaxedcaféwherethefoodisactuallygrownbythepeople
serving you. Next door to the mill, the Artisan Gallery (6858 Paoli Rd., 608/845-6600,
www.artisangal.com ) isanoutstandinggalleryof125Midwestartisansworkinginvirtually
every medium.
MM NEW GLARUS
In1845,agroupof190SwisslefttheCantonofGlarusduringaneconomicallydevastating
period. Scouts dispatched earlier had quite literally stumbled into southwestern Wisconsin
and marveled at its similarities to Switzerland—nestled in the crook of a short but steep
valley. Only 100 made it this far. After toughing out a rough winter, the Swiss farmers at-
tempted to grow wheat, but they were unaccustomed to growing the grain and, returning to
dairy, they soon began to pique interest in the east for their trademark cheeses.
New Glarus is full of white-and-brown architecture, umlauts, and scrolled Swiss-Ger-
mansayings,giftshopsevery10feet,aSwissfestivalthatseemsbiweekly,andSwissmusic
pipedthroughoutthevillage—soundsdangerouslyclosetotackytouristtrap.Fearnot—it's
done with class.
So classy, in fact, that the Swiss ambassador dropped by once to drop off a $4 million
check for the establishment in New Glarus of a North American Swiss Heritage Center
( www.theswisscenter.org ) .
Sights
One word can fully encapsulate this town: festivals. Celebratory shindigs feting the Swiss
heritage are held continually. The big draw is the Wilhelm Tell Pageant, held on Labor
Day since 1938. Virtually the whole town puts on the lederhosen—half of the town in the
grandiloquent play of Swiss independence that nobody in the other half can understand but
enjoys nonetheless. The real Independence Day, or Volksfest, is celebrated with another
festival, this one on the first Sunday in August. Swiss consular officials and other dignitar-
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