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rooms spread through three Victorians, all with working fireplaces. The dining here is in-
ternationally regarded.
AN AMERICAN FIRST
In 2012 the Red Cliff Band of the Lake Superior Chippewa opened to the public
the Frog Bay Tribal National Park along the Bayfield Peninsula coastline about 15
milesnorthofBayfield,easilyespyingseveraloftheApostleIslands.Thisisthefirst
tribalnationalparkintheUnitedStates.Smallat90acres,it'sstillgotalovelybeach,
awesome views, and a sense of achievement that conservancy groups, the govern-
ment, and the tribe all worked together to open this park.
If retro isn't your cup of tea, how about retro-posh at the M Bayfield Inn (20 Ritten-
house Ave., 715/779-3363, www.bayfieldinn.com , $170-240)? It was immaculately redone
in 2012. They fine-tooth-combed this one for design and sustainability (down to the fix-
tures).
Food
While in Bayfield, indulge in at least one of the area's two culinary trademarks—whitefish
livers and fish boils. Eating whitefish livers started as a tradition a century ago when boats
were landing millions of pounds of whitefish. The livers are generally sautéed with onions
and sometimes green peppers, though individual styles vary.
Don't let the words “family restaurant” scare you off, because Ethel's at 250 (250 Rit-
tenhouseAve,715/779-0293,lunchanddinnerdaily,$5-15)ismuchmorethanthat.Expect
traditional fare like pizza, lasagna, and burgers, but also whitefish (great whitefish pizza)
and other unexpected items. Most of all, this may be the friendliest place in northern Wis-
consin.
A recent addition, the M Wild Rice Restaurant (84860 Old San Rd., 715/779-9881,
6pm-10pmdaily,$23-34)isamajorplusforfoodies.Thefoodhereiseclecticandinspired,
all in a superbly designed dining room.
An enthralling epicurean experience, the five-course, all-night meals from the M Old
Rittenhouse Inn (Rittenhouse Ave. and 4th St., 715/779-5111 or 888/644-4667,
www.rittenhouseinn.com , 5pm-9pm daily, $45) have been called the most memorable in
the state. The fare spans the culinary spectrum but gives a hearty nod to creative Midwest-
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