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It could garner four stars from anyone, but it has an absolutely casual look and feel. The
desserts are simply unreal here.
Meat-centric but also handy with fruits and vegetables is Forequarter (708¼ E. John-
son St., 608/609-4717, dinner daily, from $9). It's along an unassuming part of downtown.
Its interiors smack of a chic hunting cabin. Run by the same collective as the equally won-
derful Underground Kitchen, its use of the whole animal may inspire you to try the whole
animal. Theirs are not typical Midwest-farm family meatballs, let me assure you.
Coffeehouses
State Street is crawling with the places. One venerable institution is Steep and Brew (544
State St., 608/256-2902, www.steepandbrewcoffee.com , hours vary with UW's semesters),
an initiator of the coffee generation in Madison.
Fish Fries
Madison has never lived and died for the fish fry (one prominent local newspaper doesn't
even have a “Favorite Fish Fry” category in its annual best-of survey), but some good ones
are here. Check www.madisonfishfry.com , though most of their choices are outside of the
city. Obviously, any restaurant wanting to stay in business will have their take on a fish fry,
but a lot of these aren't all-you-can-eat, so they're out.
For a taste of what a fish fry in Wisconsin was ages ago, try M The Avenue Bar (1128
E. Washington Ave., 608/257-6877, www.avenuebarmadison.com , 11am-10pm Mon.-Fri.,
8am-10:30pm Sat., 8am-9pm Sun., $6). This institution features a number of tables along
its huge bar and a newer hall decorated in a pastiche of Badger memorabilia and farm im-
plements.
Diners
The most classic downscale Madison breakfast place has to be Mickie's Dairy Bar (1511
Monroe St., 608/256-9476, lunch and dinner Tues.-Sun.), doling out awesome breakfasts
(luscious pancakes) and malts since the 1940s. The atmosphere is super here and the decor
real-deal, down to the aging napkin dispensers and anachronistic knickknacks everywhere
(the café's name harks back to the establishment's days as one ofthe largest milk and bread
retailers in the city). Try the Scrambler or the Frisbee-size flapjacks.
Custard and Ice Cream
Madison has caught the custard bug so prevalent in Milwaukee, up to a point. Personal
favorites include Michael's Frozen Custard, with lots of locations, and Culver's, found
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