MADISON - Wisconsin - page 141

Supper Clubs
It may be one of the hearts of the state, but you'd hardly know it by Madtown's dearth of
mentionable traditional supper clubs; downtown's lack of one is particularly galling. Oh, a
couple do exist outside of the Capitol/university area and isthmus, but even locals quibble
over whether, due to atmosphere or fare, those are truly deemed supper clubs. Readers'
opinions on this matter are most welcome.
DOWNTOWN
Quick Bites
Late spring through early autumn, just buy a box from a food cart and sprawl on the mall at
the university end of State Street or at the Capitol Square and munch with the ever-friendly
squirrels. My favorite food cart is Banzo, where you can get awesome falafel or a Philly
cheesesteak; it's also got carts at the university and Capitol ends of State Street.
Head for the cheese-lover's nirvana, Fromagination (12 S. Carroll St., 608/255-2430,
www.fromagination.com ) , which has extraordinary artisanal cheeses and a few select sand-
wiches. Well worth it if you know nada about fromage.
Burgers, Brats, and Brewpubs
Dotty Dumpling's Dowry (317 N. Frances St., 608/259-0000,
www.dottydumplingsdowry.com , 11am-1am daily, $4) always wins local surveys for bur-
gers, which really are sublime creations (if a bit pricey). Some Madison radicals frequent
the place simply because the owner put up a Pyrrhic battle against the city when it wanted
to buy his former location for the city's new arts district.
The Great Dane (123E.DotySt.,608/284-0000, www.greatdanepub.com , 11am-11pm
daily,$7-16)isabrewpuboccupying what was Madison'slandmark Fess Hotel. The interi-
or upstairs is fairly spacious, but it's best known for its great courtyard. The catacomb-like
downstairs is a great place for moody swilling. The Great Dane has been ranked in the top
10 brewpubs in the nation in terms of beer consumption; no surprise in a university town in
Wisconsin.Thefoodisexceptional, wayabovebasicpubgrub,andtheplace hasabilliards
hall and cigars for aficionados.
It's nearly raucous inside, but stick the brats, burgers, and other pan-Wisconsin-pro-
duced fare at M The Old Fashioned (23 N. Pinckney St., 608/310-4545,
www.theoldfashioned.com , 11am-9pmMon.-Fri.,4pm-1amSat.-Sun.,$5-28)onchinaona
white tablecloth and it'd pass for fine dining. It's my (and everybody else's) fave restaurant
to take out-of-towners. Expect a wait at all times.