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muchahip—thoughlow-priced—eatery,it'shousedinwhatsmacksofanoldgrocerystore
warehouse encased in glass walls from an attached grocery and small bar. Everything from
straight-up diner food to creative vegetarian is on the menu, with Indian and Southwestern
options, as well as juices and smoothies.
Soul Food
Mr. Perkins (2001 W. Atkinson Ave., 414/447-6660, 5:30am-11pm daily, $5 and up) is the
place to go for soul food, with tons of down-home specialties like collard greens, catfish,
chitterlings, fried apples, and turkey legs, as well as homemade sweet potato pie and peach
cobbler like you'll find nowhere else.
Fine Dining
Opened by a prominent local restaurateur and housed in an exquisitely restored century-old
park pavilion, M Bartolotta's Lake Park Bistro (3133 E. Newberry Blvd., 414/962-6300,
11am-9pm Mon.-Fri., 5pm-10pm Sat., 10am-2pm and 5pm-9pm Sun., $7-12) has, with
each edition of this guide, somehow managed to remain rock solid as a dining highlight.
Its French cuisine is superb and, if nothing else, the view from the drive along the lake is
worth the time. A popular Sunday brunch spot, its interiors are airy, offering plenty of pri-
vacy between tables.
SOUTH OF DOWNTOWN
Fish Fries
For the most one-of-a-kind fry anywhere, head for M American Serbian Hall (53rd St.
and Oklahoma Ave., 414/545-6030, www.americanserbhall.com , 11:30am-9pm Fri., $10),
recognized as the largest in the nation. On Friday night, this hall serves more than a ton
of Icelandic-style or Serbian baked fish to more than 2,500 people (make that two tons of
fish on Good Friday). The operation got so big that a drive-through has been added, which
servesanadditional 1,200patrons.Carsbackupformiles,whilenexttothecomplex,wait-
ing patrons (many chattering in Serbian) engage in fun-spirited bocce ball games.
Bistros
Amazing is the word for new neighborhood bistro Pastiche (3001 S. Kinnickinnic Ave.,
414/482-1446, lunch Mon.-Fri., dinners daily, $12-25), a fusion of French Italian and even
a bit of Iberian Peninsula. Reserve ahead, since it's tiny—but worth the effort.
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