Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
( 28210 71110; Akti Papanikoli 20; mains €6.50-12; lunch & dinner; ) This airy white-
and-blue space on Nea Hora Beach does fabulously fresh fish and seafood, including
some inspired stuffed-squid varieties.
Ela CRETAN $$$
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( 28210 74128; www.ela-chania.gr ; Kondylaki 47; mains €7-16; noon-1am; ) Built as a
soap factory in 1650, Ela has also seen incarnations as a school, distillery and cheese-
processing plant and is now a charismatic roofless lair serving upscale Cretan specialit-
ies. The tacky board outside tells you it's in every guidebook, but the accolades are not
undeserved.
Vineria 36 MODERN GREEK $$$
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( 28210 57590; Sarpaki 36; mains €8-15; dinner; ) The chic-rustic decor, unusual
menu and friendly service blend together perfectly at this deli-cum-dining room on a
lovely Old Town square. As the name suggests, special attention is paid to good wine to
match the made-from-scratch dishes.
Thalassino Ageri SEAFOOD $$$
$$$
( 28210 51136; www.thalasino-ageri.gr ; Vivilaki 35; fish per kg €55; from 7.30pm late-
Mar-mid-Oct) Tucked away in a tiny port among the ruins of old tanneries, this fish tav-
erna is one of Crete's top eateries. The day's catch dictates the menu but most dishes
hum with creativity, including the fisherman's salad. It's about 2km east of the centre via
Venizelou.
Drinking & Nightlife
The cafe-bars around the Venetian Harbour are nice places to sit, but charge top euro. For
a more local vibe, head to Plateia 1821 or to alt-flavoured Sarpidona on the eastern end
of the harbour.
Sinagogi BAR
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( 28210 95242; Kondylaki 15; 8pm-late June-Sep; ) In a roofless Venetian building
and former synagogue, this popular lounge is great for relaxing beneath the stone arches.
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