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be a monk's cell, or No 106, which was once a hammam (Turkish bath). Optional break-
fast is €6.
Casa dei Delfini BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$
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( 6937254857, 28310 55120; www.casadeidelfini.com ; Nikiforou Foka 66-68; studio/maisonette
€70/110; ) The four rooms in this elegant guesthouse orbit a small courtyard with a
dolphin mosaic and brim with historic character. In one, the bathroom used to be a
hammam ; in another, the bed is tucked into an arched stone alcove. All have kitchenettes.
The two-storey maisonette comes with a large private terrace.
Casa Vitae BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$
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( 6973237897, 28310 35058; www.casa-vitae.gr ; Neophytou Patealarou 3; r €80-143; )
This charismatic Venetian-era hotel has 11 quietly elegant rooms mixing stone and wood
and wrapping around a fountain-anchored courtyard where home-cooked breakfast is
served beneath the vine-covered pergola. Those in an annex across the lane are cheaper
but just as lovely.
Avli Lounge Apartments BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$
$$$
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( 28310 58250; www.avli.gr ; Xanthoudidou 22, cnr Radamanthyos; r incl breakfast €140-270;
) Luxury is taken very seriously at this hushed retreat, where you'll be ensconced in
warmly furnished studios sporting stone walls, beamed ceilings and Jacuzzi tubs. Retire
to plush beds after a first-rate dinner in Avli's romantic courtyard garden restaurant.
Eating
Taverna Knossos GREEK $
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( www.knosos-rethymno.com ; Old Venetian Harbour; mains €6-12, set menu for two €30; ) Most
tout-fronted tavernas in the Venetian Harbour focus more on ambience than on food
quality. Owned by the Stavroulaki family for half a century, Knossos is a happy excep-
tion. Dishes are loaded with flavour, the fish is outstanding and the service swift and gra-
cious.
Soul Kitchen VEGETARIAN $
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