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Even if the coastal stretch east of the city of Iraklio is one continuous band of hotels and
resorts, just a little bit inland villages sweetly lost in time provide pleasing contrast. Taste
the increasingly sophisticated tipple produced in the Iraklio Wine Country, walk in the
footsteps of Nikos Kazantzakis and revel in the rustic grandeur of the mountain village of
Zaros.
Rethymno is a fascinating quilt of bubbly resorts, centuries-old villages and energising
towns. Away from the northern coast, you'll quickly find yourself immersed in endless
tranquillity and natural beauty as you drift through such villages as Anogia, where locals
cherish their timeless traditions. The south coast is a different animal altogether - a wild
beauty with steep gorges and bewitching beaches in seductive isolation, along with the
relaxed resort of Plakias and the old hippie hang-out of Matala.
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IraklioΗράκλειο
POP 174,000
Crete's capital city, Iraklio (ee-
rah
-klee-oh, also called Heraklion), is Greece's fifth-
largest city and the island's economic and administrative hub. It's a somewhat hectic
place, roaring with motorbikes throttling in unison at traffic lights and aeroplanes thrust-
ing off into the sky over a long waterfront lined with the remnants of Venetian arsenals,
fortresses and shrines.
Though not pretty in a conventional way, Iraklio can grow on you if you take the time
to explore its nuances and wander its backstreets. A revitalised waterfront invites
strolling and the newly pedestrianised historic centre is punctuated by bustling squares
rimmed by buildings from the time when Columbus set sail.
Iraklio has a certain urban sophistication, with a thriving cafe and restaurant scene, the
island's best shopping and lively nightlife. Of course, don't miss its blockbuster sights
either, like the amazing archaeological museum and the Palace of Knossos, both fascinat-
ing windows into Minoan culture.
