Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
the seafood pasta delicious. Locally caught fish, such as red mullet and sea bream, are
priced by the kilo.
Karnagio MEZEDHES $
(mains €4.50-12) Don't miss this tiny ouzerie at Loutro where the tables skirt the harbour.
The prawn saganaki is delicious as are the homemade pies such as cheese and sun-dried
tomato.
Kalamia Café CAFE $
(snacks €2.50-7; ) A friendly gathering point. As well as snacks there's a range of
breakfast fare from €4 to €6. At night Kalamia becomes a very sociable bar.
Scholio BAR
( 22850 71837; 7pm-3.30am; ) A cosy bar and creperie, Scholio plays to the crowd
with jazz, blues or rock. It's at the western end of the main street above Loutro. The own-
ers are accomplished photographers and often have exhibitions of their work on show.
Information
Koufonisia's only settlement spreads out behind the ferry quay. On one side of the quay
is the yacht marina; on the other side is a wide bay filled with moored fishing boats. A
large beach of flat, hard sand gives a great sense of space to the waterfront. Its inner edge
is used as a road. The older part of town, the hora, sprawls along a low hill above the har-
bour and is one long main street, often strewn with fallen leaves of bougainvillea.
There are a couple of supermarkets along the road that leads inland from the beach to
link with the main street, and there's a ticket agency, Prasinos ( 22850 71438) , halfway
along the main street. The post office is along the first road that leads sharply left as you
reach the road leading inland from the seafront. There is an ATM outside the post office.
DONOUSA ΔΟΝΟΥΣΑ
POP 163
Donousa is the out-on-a-limb island where you stop bothering about which day it might
be. In late July and August the island can be swamped by holidaymaking Greeks and
sun-seeking northern Europeans, but out of season be prepared to linger - quietly.
Agios Stavros is Donousa's main settlement and port, a cluster of whitewashed build-
ings around a handsome church, overlooking a small, sandy bay. Little has changed here
over the years. There's an excellent beach , which also serves as a thoroughfare for infre-
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