Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Deli Restaurant and Sweet Bar
GREEK $$$
( 22850 74278; mains €17-25; dinner)
At the heart of village life, Deli belies the simple
life of Schinousa. Its gourmet menu includes dishes like local veal seasoned with cinna-
mon and orange, and fried feta cheese wrapped in a crunchy filo dough with honey and
local sesame. Ingredients are sourced as locally as possible; they even make their own
bread from grain from the family farm.
The upper floor houses the sea-view restaurant, the ground floor is a very cool cafe-
bar and downstairs there's a sweet section that will seduce you. The wine list is trim, but
excellent, with some fine Greek vintages.
TOP OF CHAPTER
KoufonisiaΚουφονήσια
POP 366
Koufonisia is made up of three main islands, however, the populated
Ano Koufonisia
is
where you'll arrive. Excellent beaches make this low-lying island one of the most visited
of the Little Cyclades; it sees a flash flood of tourism each summer season and has the
infrastructure to prove it. Still, the island retains its low-key charm, and a substantial
fishing fleet sustains a thriving local community outside the fleeting summer season.
The flat profile of
Kato Koufonisia
is just to its south and a short caïque ride away.
Kato Koufonisia has some beautiful beaches and a lovely church.
East of here is the dramatic
Keros
, a rugged mountain of an island with dramatic
cliffs. Archaeological digs on Keros have uncovered more than 100 Early Cycladic figur-
ines, including the famous harpist and flautist now on display in Athens' National Ar-
chaeological Museum. In recent years, archaeologists discovered hoards of deliberately
broken figurines, dating from the period 2500 BC to 2000 BC. It is theorised they were
broken for ritualistic purposes rather than due to vandalism or by accident and may have
been deposited on Keros because the island was an important centre of Cycladean ritual.
Sights
An easy 2km walk along the sandy coast road to the east of the port leads to
Finikas
,
Harakopou
and
Fano Beaches
. All tend to become swamped with grilling bodies in
July and August and nudity becomes more overt the further you go.
Beyond Fano a path leads to several rocky swimming places, and then continues to the
great bay at
Pori
, where a long crescent of sand slides effortlessly into the ultimate
Greek-island-dream sea. Pori can also be reached by an inland road from Hora.
