Northern Greece - Greece - page 537

Around Orestiada
Some 18km southeast on the old road following the Evros River and railroad, the Byzan-
tine Castle of Pythio (Pythio village; daylight) guards a tall bluff above Pythio
village (Empythion, in Byzantine times), overlooking the Thracian plain and river's dark
treeline. Built in 1347 by Emperor John Kantakouzenos, during a turbulent period of
civil wars and Turkish invasions, it's Thrace's only surviving example of Byzantine de-
fensive architecture. Renovations continue. Ask the fylakos (guard) for the key. Even if
you don't get in, you can appreciate the castle's grandeur.
If driving, a circular northern Evros day trip from Orestiada accesses intriguing, un-
visited sights. Drive west through Valtos for Mikri Doxipara , where a 1st-century-AD
Roman tomb was discovered, with five interred funerary carts with horses and harnesses.
From here, turn north towards Kyprinos village and its Church of Agiou Georgiou ,
with icons and a very ancient baptistery. Watch out for Father Nikolaos, a transplanted
Cretan who may spontaneously leap into heel-slapping Cretan dance.
If it's a weekend, stop further north at Pendalofos village's game restaurant, Ev-
rothirama ( 25560 61202; mains €7-10) , for pheasant, venison or wild boar. Otherwise,
you'll find other tavernas here and there. After Pendalofos, continue to Petrota , north-
western Evros' last village before Bulgaria, with vineyards and traditional stone houses.
The border road continues eastward through Ormenio (famous for its wines) and Dikea,
before looping south back to Orestiada.
Some 19km north of Orestiada near Kastanies , the Ardas River Festival ( 25520
81140; www.ardas.gr ) occurs each July, drawing several thousand youngsters. Top Greek
singers, Turkish and Bulgarian groups, and Greek and foreign DJs perform. Besides mu-
sic, there's beach volleyball, minisoccer, motocross, theatre and water-park trips.
Kastanies itself is a sleepy hamlet, and Greece's northernmost Turkish border cross-
ing; evocative Edirne (Adrianoupoli in Greek) is just 9km east. If you're feeling limber
and travelling light, turn at Aegean Petrol's benzinadiko (petrol station), walk east 500m
to the border police checkpoint, and continue a couple of kilometres over the river and
through the woods into Turkey. Sometimes there are minibuses here heading into Edirne
or its bus station.
If you are attempting the same feat from the opposite direction, note that the last
Kastanies-Orestiada bus (€1.60) departs at 7pm. Aegean Petrol has tickets.