Travel Reference
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style diner seats and some of Macedonia's most inventive cuisine. Try the risotto with
strawberries and dark chocolate, or bon filet with wild mushrooms. Salads and pastas are
excellent too. Note the odd opening hours.
Ta Kymata Psaradika FISH TAVERNA $$$
( 24670 28887; Psaradika; fish €9-13; 9am-12am) Since 1953, this colourful taverna on
the north-side lakefront has been serving excellent Aegean and freshwater fish. Try
grilled river trout or barbounia (red mullet), and sample creative appetisers such as
mydopilafi (mussels with rice) or tsirosalata (smoked mackerel). Local lake fish (120kg
catfish, anyone?) are available, except during May's temporary fishing suspension.
Doltso TAVERNA $$$
( 24670 24670; Plateia Doltso; mains €9-13) Near the eponymous square, this restored ar-
hontika taverna has excellent local dishes and more than 70 wines. Try the berdama (au-
bergine baked with tomato, bacon and pepper, all topped with melted cheese). Meat por-
tions are generous. Wild boar (€13) is available November through March.
Vatrahos BAR
( 24675 03375; Thomaidos 11; 11am-late) This unpretentious north-waterfront bar be-
hind gauze curtains is popular with locals and foreigners. Good for coffee by day, it gets
lively at night and plays more varied music than most Kastoria bars.
Zaza BAR
( 24670 24016; Megas Alexandrou 61; 10am-3am) Amidst the south coast's cafe row,
Zaza is as weirdly shaped as Kastoria itself, with curvy bars, a deep interior and twink-
ling lights. It has good cocktails and is packed on weekends.
A Rock Tale BAR
(Tsoutou Barda 6; 9am-late) On a hilly central street halfway between the north and
south coasts, this almost-dive bar is reserved for Kastoria's ageing rockers. Live bands
sometimes perform (September through March).
Lago Cafe Tip Bar BAR
(Megas Alexandrou 53; 10am-late) This trendy southern-waterfront bar is sleek and club-
like, with unusual decor such as bicycles, skeletons and Uncle Sam in mural. Its owners
also run the Nautical Hall , a summer-only outdoor club on the northeastern coast, near
the rowing club.
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