Northern Greece - Greece - page 514

panded his empire across much of the southern Balkans, chronically sparring with
Byzantium.
The island's name derives from the church, which itself references Samuel's in-
vasion of Thessaly; while conquering Larissa in 983, he 'borrowed' the sacred relics
of 4th- century Saint Ahillios, an avid opponent of heretics who had miraculously
coaxed oil to ooze from a rock to make his theological point. To celebrate his con-
quest, Samuel dedicated the new church to the abducted saint.
To get here from Agios Germanos, cross the connecting strip between the two
lakes and turn immediately left; from Psarades, just keep going straight south in-
stead of turning onto the interlake strip. After parking, walk across a 1km-long
floating pontoon bridge. Off the bridge, the signposted path going slightly left hugs
the east coast and leads to the basilica and other church ruins. Alternatively, turn
right off the bridge for the shop and taverna.
Agios Ahillios is sparsely inhabited, though August's Prespes Festival features a
headlining concert in the amphitheatre-like basilica - magically transformed into a
stage, with audiences of up to 5000-strong watching from the hill above, some-
times clutching candles.
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KastoriaΚαστοριά
POP 16,958
Sprawled out along a forested promontory in Lake Orestiada , Kastoria (kah-stor- yah ) is
among Greece's more inscrutable towns. Its compact centre sprawls north to south across
a narrow but hilly strip, which widens out eastward into the old quarter, Doltso, and then
spreads further east into an unpopulated wooded stretch above the lake - from above, the
whole enterprise looks like a giant, bludgeoned manta ray.
Historically, the fur trade made Kastoria rich, as evidenced by the stately 17th- and
18th-century arhontika (mansions) of erstwhile fur barons in Doltso. While today the fur
may be imported, the craftsmanship tradition continues. Kastoria's former glory is also
attested by more than 50 lavishly decorated Byzantine and post-Byzantine churches
(most are closed).
Kastoria has been considered salubrious since Byzantine times, when its remarkable
lack of humidity attracted tuberculosis patients. Most recently, Kastoria made Greeks
proud when the women's and men's rowing teams took silver and bronze medals, re-
spectively, in London's 2012 Olympics - some Kastorians were on these teams, which
train on the lake. You can stroll or cycle around it (9km total) - if you're lucky, you
might spot a reclusive otter, in the more remote stretches.