Northern Greece - Greece - page 490

the water, by the Jet Oil station. Go well before boat departure time to avoid long lines.
Show your passport and booking confirmation to get the three-night (four-day) diamon-
itirion: students pay €10, Orthodox believers €25, everyone else €30. Free entry is gran-
ted on a case-by-case basis to the poor, the sick and so on. There's a parking lot (per day
€7.50) on Ouranoupoli's south side, though street parking is free.
From Ouranoupoli, the Agia Anna leaves for Athos' port of Dafni at 8am and 11am
Monday to Saturday, and 8.30am Sunday (€8). The Axion Esti leaves at 9.45am (€6).
Nearby to the ticket office ( 23770 71248; Ouranoupoli) on the far waterfront, you can
get bougatsa (creamy semolina pudding wrapped in a pastry envelope and baked) and
coffee.
The ferry stops at several monasteries before reaching Dafni (two hours total). There, a
bus serves Karyes , the administrative capital (€2.60). Otherwise, for monasteries further
down the coast, change boats at Dafni.
Monasteries offer free accommodation and food, generally for one night. The diamon-
itirion can be extended in Karyes for another two days. However, a friendly monastery
may let you stay longer without the administrative hassle.
Exploring Athos
While monastic vehicles, buses and boats operate, walking is ideal for experiencing
Athos' serenity. Centuries-old paths criss-cross tranquil forests, enlivened by the rustling
of leaves, chirping of birds and occasional passing monk, rhythmically reciting his pray-
ers. Spring, when the flowers come out, is an especially beautiful time to visit.
Twice-daily boats from Dafni (around €2.50) serve west-coast monasteries like
Dionysiou, Simonas Petras, Agiou Pavlou and Agias Triados/Kavsokalyvion.
Karyes hosts the 10th-century Protaton (the basilican church opposite the Holy
Epistasia), with artwork by Panselinos, master of the 'Macedonian School' of painting.
ATHOS DAY TRIPS BY BOAT
If you can't visit Mt Athos or simply don't have time, regular boat trips from Ouran-
oupoli trace the southern peninsula, passing Athos' most spectacular clifftop mon-
asteries and wild nature.
Athos Sea Cruises ( 23770 71071; www.athos-cruises.gr ; Ouranoupoli) runs a three-
hour trip (adult/child under six €18/free) on the 300-seatKapetan Fotis(10.30am
and 1.45pm daily, from Easter through October). It passes nine major west-coast
monasteries with good views of Athos' peak. The boat cruises 500m from shore