Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Holy Mountain was formally dedicated, when Emperor Nikoforos II Fokas funded Me-
gistis Lavras, which is still Athos' biggest monastery.
Athos flourished under imperial patronage, but growing commercial involvement
sparked protests from conservative monks who feared old-school traditions were being
diluted. Corrective imperial edicts reaffirmed prior ones: most famously, in 1060 Con-
stantine IX Monomahos banned women, female domestic animals, beardless persons and
eunuchs. Today women are still banned, hens are tolerated for their eggs, beards are no
longer mandatory and eunuchs are not readily available.
After a glorious 11th century, pirates, Catalans and Crusaders (in 1204) pillaged inter-
mittently. Nevertheless, the Holy Mountain was always reborn; founding and subsidising
monasteries was very prestigious for donors.
Ottomans arrived in 1430, but respected Athos' semi-independent status. In 1542 the
last monastery, Stavronikita, was founded. During the Independence War (1821-29),
Turks plundered and burned monasteries and their libraries. In perhaps his only wise de-
cision, Hitler spared Athos during Germany's WWII occupation.
Athos' 1924 Constitution was guaranteed in Greece's 1975 Constitution. Foreign-born
monks become Greek citizens. Each monastery has one representative on the Holy Coun-
cil (Iera Synaxis), which oversees Athos' 1600 monks.
Getting the Permit
Book up to six months ahead for summer and Orthodox holidays; at other times, space is
plentiful. Only 10 non-Orthodox and 100 Orthodox men are admitted daily. Those under
18 must be accompanied by their father or, if with a group or guardian, need their fath-
er's written permission.
Email or fax your preferred visit dates and passport copy to the Thessaloniki-based Mt
Athos Pilgrims' Bureau ( Click here ) and they will inform you when you can pick up
your permit. Otherwise, if not passing through Thessaloniki, print the confirmation
email/fax. Clergymen need written permission from the Ecumenical Patriarchate of
Constantinople ( in Turkey 90 21253 49037; İstanbul) . Next, phone the monasteries to re-
serve specific nights; some get rather crotchety if you show up unannounced. Finally,
take your written/printed confirmation and luggage to Ouranoupoli for the diamonitirion
(final permit).
Entering Athos
Ouranoupoli's small Pilgrims' Office ( 23770 71422; fax 23770 71450; Ouranoupoli;
8.10am-2pm) , marked by a black-and-yellow Byzantine flag, is on the side street towards
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