Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
removed marble stones from the Jewish cemetery to strengthen them further. You can
walk them from opposite the university (Panepistimio Aristotelion) almost all the way
uphill.
Only Ano Poli (then, the Turkish Quarter) largely survived the 1917 fire - although it
originated there, the wind swept the flames towards the sea. Today, it's a refuge for Thes-
saloniki's leftists and lazing cats, with a quiet residential charm.
Church of Agios Dimitrios
CHURCH
MAP
( 2310 270 008; Agiou Dimitriou 97; 8am-10pm)
This enormous 5th-century structure
honours Thessaloniki's patron saint. A Roman soldier, Dimitrios was killed around AD
303 at this former Roman bath site, on orders of Emperor Galerius, infamous persecutor
of Christians. The martyrdom site is now an eerie underground
crypt
, open daytime
hours and for a Friday-night service. Dimitrios's relics, returned from Italy in 1980, oc-
cupy a silver reliquary inside.
The Ottomans made Agios Dimitrios a mosque, plastering over frescoes. After the
1913 Greek reconquest the plaster was removed, revealing Thessaloniki's finest church
mosaics. While the 1917 fire was very damaging, five 8th-century mosaics survive, span-
ning the altar.
Church of Agia Sofia
CHURCH
MAP
(Plateia Agias Sofias; 7am-1pm & 5-6.30pm)
This 8th-century church occupying Plateia
Agias Sofias was modelled on its İstanbul namesake. Its dome has a striking mosaic of
the Ascension of Christ. Built over a previous 3rd-century church, it's notable for the
cross-basilica style associated with middle-Byzantine architecture.
Church of the Panagia Ahiropiitos
CHURCH
MAP
( 7am-noon & 4.30-6.30pm)
This basilica-style 5th-century Byzantine church has notable
mosaics and frescoes. The name, meaning 'made without hands', refers to a miraculous
12th-century appearance of an icon of the Virgin.
Monastery of Vlatadon
MONASTERY
(cnr Eptapyrgiou & Agathangelou; 7.30am-5pm & 5.30-8pm, museum 10am-noon Sun)
Near
Ano Poli's Byzantine Walls, this relaxing place in a leafy, secluded location has a small
museum
and gift shop. Founded by the pious brothers Vlatades (1360), it was important
