Central Greece - Greece - page 405

Portaria , 2km east of Makrinitsa, is 12km northeast of Volos. True to Pelion form, its
plateia has a splendid old plane tree, and the little 13th-century Church of Panagia of
Portaria has fine frescoes.

Sleeping & Eating
Midrange to upmarket places line Portaria.

Arhontiko Kritsa HOTEL $
( 24280 99418; Portaria; s/d €40/50) For its unpretentious, old-fashioned modesty, we
like Arhontiko Kritsa (not to be confused with Hotel Kritsa, which is also in the centre),
where you have a choice of the creaky, atmospheric old building with three inter- con-
necting rooms, or newer '80s-style rooms.

Hotel Despotiko BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$

$$$
( 24280 99046; www.despotiko.gr ; Portaria; r from €100; ) For an upmarket experience
(with varied reviews about service), try this handsomely converted mansion. Website
promotions sometimes available.

Kritsa Hotel Restaurant greek $
( 24280 99121; www.hotel-kritsa.gr ; Portaria; mains €6-14) Head to the Portaria plateia to
find this welcoming spot, set under plane trees and serving outstanding Pelion favourites
such as slow-cooked 'lamb-in-the-jug' (€11) and roasted wild greens with egg (€8).

MAKRINITSA ΜΑΚΡΙΝΙΤΣΑ
POP 650
Clinging to a mountainside, Makrinitsa is aptly called the Balcony of Pelion. From a dis-
tance, the traditional houses give the impression that they're stacked on top of one anoth-
er. Up close, the whitewashed structures are threaded with steep stairs crowded with
geraniums, hydrangeas and roses. Further up, the path leads to more than 50 stone water
fountains. It is one of the loveliest of the Pelion villages and, because of its proximity to
Volos, also the most visited.
The village is a pedestrian zone; a bus terminus and shaded car park mark the en-
trance. The central square is anchored by a massive plane tree with a kid-friendly hollow,
a marble fountain and the tiny chapel of Agia Panagia.

Sights