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(1878-1937), who bequeathed his collection of porcelain, engravings and lithographs on
condition that it be exhibited at Pylos, near the battle's location.
Club Boats BOAT TOUR
( 6972263565, 27230 23155; www.pyloscruises.gr ; kiosk on the quay; Jun-Sep) Runs boat
tours around the Bay of Navarino and to Sfaktiria Islet (silt-covered wrecks of sunken
Turkish ships are discernible in the clear waters). The price depends on the number of
passengers, but reckon on about €15 per person (minimum numbers apply).
Sleeping
Karalís Beach Hotel HOTEL $$$
( 27230 23021; www.karalisbeach.gr ; Paralia; s/d/tr €75/90/110) Pylos' clear winner in the
rather noncompetitive hotel stakes. It's hard not to like this place for the setting alone -
under the castle walls, clinging to a cliff over the water. Rooms are small but stylish with
beige tones. Those at the front have balconies.
Hotel Miramare HOTEL $$$
( 27230 22751; www.miramarepylos.gr ; Tsamadou 3; d incl breakfast €60; ) Deceptively
large with 35 simple but airy rooms, this marine-themed spot is in a prime location, over-
looking the water. It's popular with groups so you may need to book ahead.
Eating
There are plenty of tavernas with standard favourites, so if you're the kind of person who
smells sea air and craves fish, you will be very satisfied. Prices tend to fluctuate greatly
depending on the season.
Restaurant Grigoris TAVERNA $
( 27230 22621; mains €5-12) Nestled under plane trees on the corner of the central square
(and over the road under a terrace), this charming eatery hits the spot. Round off your ap-
petite with a selection from the chef's stove-top displays, then sit back and watch the
world go by. Sigh. Greece at its best.
Koukos TAVERNA $
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