Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Rahi
CAFE $
( 26450 99439;
www.rachi.gr
;
Exanthia; dishes €6-8; 10am-1am May-Sep)
Break the jour-
ney along the coast on the terrace open to the sky, mountains and vast, blue sea, and ser-
vng cafe food and mezedhes.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Central Lefkada
The spectacular central spine of Lefkada, with its traditional farming villages, lush green
peaks, fragrant pine trees, olive groves and vineyards, plus fleeting views of the islets, is
well worth exploring if you have time and transport.
The small village of
Karya
is the most touristy, but has a pretty square with plane trees
and tavernas and is famous for its
embroidery
, introduced in the 19th century by a re-
markable one-handed local woman, Maria Koutsochero, and commemorated by a
mu-
seum
in a traditional house. For rooms, ask British Brenda Sherry at
Café Pierros
(
6938605898)
.
The island's highest village,
Englouvi
, a few kilometres south of Karya, is renowned
for its honey and lentil production.
Book ahead for a guided
Herbal Walk
(
6934287446;
www.lefkas.cc
)
or workshop near
quaint
Alexandros
.
Kolyvata Taverna
(Maria's Taverna; 6984056686, 26450 41228; mains €5-8; Apr-
Oct)
offers a rural, culinary dream for the truly intrepid. Gregarious Kiria Maria opens the
front terrace of her home to guests (reserve ahead to be sure she's there), and serves up
fresh, perfectly cooked treats - whatever's ready in her garden. The
koutsoupia
(Judas)
tree blooms purple in springtime, and the views of the nearby hills are idyllic. Find the
tiny stone hamlet of
Kolyvata
, signposted off the road between Alexandros and Nikiana.
MEGANISI ΜΕΓΑΝΗΣΙ
POP 1040
Meganisi, with its verdant landscape and deep turquoise bays fringed by pebbled
beaches, is the easiest escape from too much Nydri. It can fit into a day visit or a longer,
more relaxed stay. The narrow lanes and bougainvillea-bedecked houses of
Spartohori
perch on a plateau above Porto Spilia (where the ferry docks; follow the steep road or
steps behind). Pretty
Vathy
is the island's second harbour, 800m behind which sits the
village of
Katomeri
. With time to spare, visit remote beaches such as
Limonari
.
