Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Piedra del Mar
MEDITERRANEAN $$$
( 26630 91566;
www.piedradelmar.gr
;
Barbati; mains €7-22; lunch & dinner Jul-Aug or Sep)
Dust off your best togs for a dose of the good life... Beachfront chic melds perfectly with
terrific Mediterranean cuisine.
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South of Corfu Town
The coast road south from Corfu Town leads to well-signposted
Achillion Palace
(
26610 56210; Gastouri; adult/child €7/2, audio- guide €3; 8am-8pm Apr-Oct, 8.45am-4pm Nov-
Mar)
near the village of Gastouri. It was built in the 1890s by Empress Elisabeth of Aus-
tria, known as Sisi, as a retreat and in tribute to her hero, Achilles. (Poor Sisi was later
assassinated on the shores of Lake Geneva by a deranged anarchist.) Kaiser Wilhelm II
bought the palace in 1907, and added a ferocious statue of Achilles Triumphant. Arrive
early for fewer crowds and journey through neoclassicism, fabulous furnishings and bold
statuary (style or kitsch?).
South of the Achillion, the resort of
Benitses
is enhanced by its pleasant old village,
from where tracks and paths lead into the steep, wooded slopes above.
Klimataria
(Bellos; 26610 71201; mains €8-14; dinner)
, in Benitses, is worth a
pilgrimage in its own right. Often simply called Bellos, after its unassuming owner, Kos-
tas, every item in the tiny, humble taverna is absolutely delicious. From the olive oil and
specially sourced feta to the tender octopus or array of mezedhes (appetisers), Bellos will
not serve anything that he cannot find fresh. Book ahead in summer. If you can't get into
Bellos, nearby
O Paxinos
(
26610 72339; mains €9-16;
lunch & dinner)
is noted for its
mezedhes and fish dishes.
Further south again are the popular beach resorts of
Moraïtika
and
Messonghi
, from
where the winding coastal road leads to tranquil
Boukari
with its little harbour. Walk
back into the kitchen at the excellent
psarotaverna
(fish taverna)
Spiros Karidis
(
26620 51205; fish per kg €35-50; lunch & dinner)
to select from the day's catch. The pleas-
upper-floor rooms with fantastic views.
Lefkimmi
, in the southern part of the island, is one of Corfu's most down-to-earth
towns, and still gets on with everyday life. Fascinating churches dot the older section,
and it's divided by a rather quaint, but sometimes odorous, canal.
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