Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Vatera & Polyhnitos Βατερά & Πολυχνίτος
Despite its 9km-long sandy beach, Vatera (vah-ter-
ah
), remains a low-key getaway des-
tination, with only a few small hotels and domatia operating, and even fewer bars.
On its western edge, at Cape Agios Fokas, the sparse ruins of an ancient
Temple of
Dionysos
occupy a headland overlooking the sea. In the cove between the beach and the
cape, evidence indicates an ancient military encampment; indeed, some historians be-
lieve this is the place Homer was referring to in the
Iliad
as the resting point for Greek
armies besieging Troy.
Vatera's most ancient history has attracted international attention. Fossils have been
found here dating back 5.5 million years, including remains of a tortoise as big as a Volk-
swagen Bug, though possibly faster, and fossils of a gigantic horse and gazelle. The
Vryssa; admission €1; 9.30am-3pm & 4-8pm Jun-Sep, 9.30am-3.30pm Wed-Sun Oct-May)
loc-
ated in Vryssa's old schoolhouse, displays these and other significant remains.
Agricultural
Polyhnitos
, 10km north of Vatera on the road back to Mytilini town, is
known for its two nearby
hot springs
, one just to the southeast and the other 5km north,
outside Lisvorio village. The former, known as the
Polyhnitos Spa
( 22520 41229;
www.hotsprings.gr
; adult/child €4/3, private bath €5.50; 2am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-8pm Sun)
is
in a pretty, renovated Byzantine building, and has some of Europe's hottest bath temper-
atures, at 31°C (87.6°F). Rheumatism, arthritis, skin diseases and gynaecological prob-
lems are treated here.
Some 5km northwest of Polyhnitos, the fishing port of
Skala Polyhnitou
lies on the
Gulf of Kalloni. It's a relaxing, if unremarkable place, where caïques bob at the docks
and fishermen untangle their nets, and is great for low-key seafood dinners at sunset.
Sleeping & Eating
Hotel Vatera Beach
HOTEL $
( 22520 61212;
www.vaterabeach.com
;
Vatera; s/d €60/90; )
This peaceful
beachfront hotel regards its guests, many of whom return annually, as dear old friends.
The congenial Takis Ballis provides free multilingual newspapers, and the hotel's excel-
lent restaurant gets most of its ingredients from the owners' organic farm.
Agiasos Hotel
HOTEL $
