Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Located 24km southwest of Chios Town, Pyrgi (peer-
ghi
), the Mastihohoria's largest vil-
lage, juxtaposes traditional and modern architecture, with facades decorated in intricate
grey-and-white patterns, some geometric and others based on flowers, leaves and anim-
als. The technique, called
xysta,
uses equal amounts of cement, volcanic sand and lime as
well as bent forks and a fine eye.
Pyrgi's central square is flanked by tavernas, shops and the little 12th-century
Church
of Agios Apostolos
( 10am-1pm Tue-Thu & Sat)
. East of the square, note the house with
a plaque attesting to its former occupant - one Christopher Columbus, also a fan of mas-
tic gum, though he apparently preferred it as a sealant in boat construction.
Six kilometres southeast of Pyrgi,
Emboreios
was the Mastihohoria's port back when
the mastic producers were high-rollers. Today it's much quieter, though it does boast
Mavra Volia Beach
, named for its black volcanic pebbles. You can stay the night here in
domatia and eat in a couple of shaded tavernas.
Mesta Μεστά
Mesta (mest-
aah
) is a truly memorable village and one of Greece's most unusual. Here,
appealing stone alleyways, intertwined with flowers and intricate balconies, are com-
pletely enclosed by thick defensive walls - the work of Chios' former Genoese rulers,
who built this fortress town in the 14th century to keep pirates and would-be invaders
out.
Mesta is an ingenious example of medieval defensive architecture, featuring a double
set of walls, four gates and a pentagonal structure. Since the rooftops are interconnected,
with the right guide you can actually walk across the entire town. In medieval times,
mastic was a hot commodity, prized for its medicinal powers, meaning Mesta had to be
especially well fortified.
As a car-free village, it's a relaxing, romantic place where children can run around
safely. Mesta also makes a good base for hill walking, exploring southern beaches and
caves, and participating in cultural and ecotourism activities.
Village life converges on the central square with its small cafes and restaurants, and,
nearby, the enormous Church of the Taxiarhes. Along the tranquil, secluded lanes, rooms
for rent are almost indistinguishable from the attached residences.
Sights
Churches of the Taxiarhes
CHURCH
