Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
beach. To escape the midsummer mob, however, head 3km further west to more tranquil
Psili Ammos Beach
, stay the night in domatia here, and sample the fresh fish at the
beach tavernas.
Hikers keen on exploring the flanks of
Mt Kerkis
, or even reaching its peak (1434m),
should enquire in Votsalakia for the trail head, which passes the
convent
of Evangelistri-
as on the way.
Past Kambos, the rugged western route, undeveloped and tranquil, skirts Mt Kerkis
until reaching the villages of
Kallithea
and
Drakeï
, where the road abruptly ends. A
walking trail is the only link between this point and Potami on the north coast.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Northern Samos
Vathy to Karlovasi Βαθύ προς Καρλοβάσι
From Vathy (Samos), the coast road west passes a number of beaches and resorts. The
first,
Kokkari
(10km from Vathy), was once a fishing village, but has become something
of a package resort. Windsurfing from its long pebble beach is good when the wind's up
in summer. The popular nearby beaches of
Lemonaki
,
Tsamadou, Tsambou
and
Livadhaki
are the most accessible for Kokkari-based travellers.
Continuing west, the landscape becomes more forested and mountainous. Take the
left-hand turn-off after 5km to reach the lovely mountain village of
Vourliotes
. The vil-
lage's multicoloured, shuttered houses cluster on and above a
plateia
. Walkers can altern-
atively take a good
monopati
(footpath) from Kokkari.
Back on the coast road, look for the signposted turn-off for another fragrant village,
Manolates
, 5km further up the lower slopes of Mt Ambelos (1153m). Set amidst thick
pine and deciduous forests, and boasting gorgeous traditional houses, Manolates is nearly
encircled by mountains and offers a cooler alternative to the sweltering coast.
The shops of both Vourliotes and Manolates sell handmade ceramic art and icons,
along with the Cup of Pythagoras. Good tavernas are plentiful and, despite the touristy
patina, both villages are worth visiting for a glimpse of old Samos.
Back on the coast heading west, the road continues through
Agios Konstantinos
- a
flower-filled village with a rather bleak seafront - before coming to workaday
Karlovasi
,
Samos' third port.
Just 3km beyond Karlovassi lies the sand-and-pebble
Potami Beach
, blessed with
good swimming and a reggae beach bar. It's complemented by nearby
forest waterfalls
;
