Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
( 22730 95457; Ireon; mains €4-7; 11am-11pm)
Fish prices here are reasonable and the
fish are fished and eaten, not frozen and consumed. Try the fish soup and finger-wrapped
dolmadhes. Savour all on a rustic, vine- covered veranda facing a topaz-blue sea.
A MATTER OF MEASUREMENTS
While the obsession with the 'proper pint' may seem modern, the ancient Greeks
too fixated on measuring their alcohol. Pythagoras, that great Samian mathem-
atician (and, presumably, drinker) created an invention that ensured party hosts
and publicans could not be deceived by guests aspiring to inebriation. His creation
was dubbed thedikiakoupa tou Pythagora(Just Cup of Pythagoras). This mysteri-
ous, multiholed drinking vessel holds its contents perfectly, unless filled past the
engraved line - at which point the glass drains completely from the bottom, pun-
ishing the glutton!
Today faithful reproduction,made of colourful, glazed ceramic, are sold in
Samos gift shops, tangible reminders of the Apollan Mean: 'Everything in modera-
tion'.
Psili Ammos Ψιλή Αμμος
Sandy
Psili Ammos Beach
, 11km east of Pythagorio, is the best of the southeastern
beaches, a lovely cove facing Turkey. It's bordered by shady trees and has shallow kid-
friendly waters. Several good fish tavernas compete for the best bay view. Sleep the sea
and sardines off at the classy
Apartments Elena
(
22730 23645;
www.elenaapartments.gr
;
Psili Ammos; s/d €45/60;
)
where the rooms are spacious and comfy.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Southwestern Samos
Pythagorio to Drakeï Πυθαγόρειο προς Δρακαίους
The drive west from Pythagorio traverses spectacular mountain scenery with stunning
views of the south coast. This route also features many little signposted huts, where bee-
keepers sell superlative but inexpensive Samian honey.
Along the way, around the village of
Pyrgos
you'll be treated to magnificent views of
mountain, sky and sea before reaching
Ormos Marathokambou
(Bay of Marathokam-
pos). Another 4km west is
Votsalakia Beach
(often called Kambos), with its long, sandy
