Dodecanese - Greece - page 1063

keep you happy. Just opposite is a water sports outfit that can take you wakeboarding
and water-skiing and where you can hire sunbeds.
The main road forks left to Lambi , 9km from Skala, where you wind down green hills
to an impressive beach of multicoloured pebbles. High above, Leonidas (mains €9;
) has roast lamb, souvlakia, calf's liver, lobster (€85 per kilo) and octopus. Eat in
the garden or homely interior. On the beach itself, lulled by the nearby waves, Lambi
Fish Tavern (mains €7-14; 10am-late; ) is a tranquil setting to enjoy meatballs,
salted mackerel, stuffed vine leaves, souvlakia and octopus cooked in wine.
Under the protected lee of the north arm of the island are several more beaches, in-
cluding Vagia Beach . Overlooking the beach Cafe Vagia (mains €3-5; 9am-7pm) is a
real gem, its hillside garden enjoying turquoise views and fragrant with fresh-baked pies
alchemised in the kitchen.
Further east is the shaded Livadi tou Geranou Beach , with a small church-crowned
island opposite. Remote with heavenly sea views, Livadi Geranou Taverna (mains €9;
10am-late) is backdropped by heather-clad hills and has a menu of souvlakia, whitebait
and octopus.
TOP OF CHAPTER
South of Skala
Small, tree-filled valleys and picturesque beaches fill the south of Patmos. Closest to
Skala is the tiny, peaceful settlement of Sapsila . Mathios Studios ( 22470 32583;
www.mathiosapartments.gr ; studio/apt €70/80; ) has the most appealing midrange stu-
dios on the island; check-cloth tables, comfy beds, driftwood sculptures, books to read
and great kitchens with sea views. Dine nearby at Benetos (Sapsila; mains €7-14; dinner
Tue-Sun; ) , a working boutique farmhouse restaurant that specialises in Mediter-
ranean fusion dishes with an occasional Japanese kick. Try zucchini blossoms stuffed
with mushrooms and cheese. Open in July onwards.
Grikos , 1km further along over the hill, has a long, sandy beach lined with tavernas,
and the chapel of Agios Ioannis Theologos where many believe St John baptised is-
landers. Overlooking Petra Beach is Flivos Restaurant (mains €7.50) , with traditional de-
cor and a terrific seafood menu including swordfish and shrimps with garlic sauce.
Want to eat sushi on an elegant boat moored in the moonlight? You can on Spartan (
6972119206) , a 14m-long caïque run by friendly Reiko. She also skippers the craft to
Arki, Lipsi and Marathi, sailing from Grikos harbour for the day. On board you can buy