Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
sessions. Either way the menu is tasty with
stifadho,
breakfasts, lamb stew, calamari,
souvlakia and steaks. Try the giant prawn
saganaki
.
dise.gr
; Emborios; standard/f apt €48/90; )
sits in an Edenic garden of jasmine, roses,
aromatic herbs and hibiscus. The food is divine; locally sourced, quintessentially
Kalymnian but with a modern twist. Think prawns, cheese and parsley rolled in filo
pastry, or grilled rabbit with wine potatoes and garlic. The apartments are no less tasteful
with shabby chic elements, rocking chairs, kitchenettes and large balconies with sea
views. Book ahead!
TOP OF CHAPTER
Vathys & RinaΒαθύς & Ρίνα
Vathys, set in a fertile valley on the east coast of Kalymnos, is one of the most beautiful
parts of the island. Narrow roads wind between citrus orchards, bordered by high stone
walls called
koumoula
.
Rina, Vathys' little harbour, feels as if it's on a fjord, for the teal-green sea snakes
around a rocky bend before opening out into the ocean. But for the click of old timers
playing backgammon there's little movement here.
Water taxis
( 6947082912, 22430
31316)
take tourists to quiet coves, such as the nearby
Almyres
and
Drasonda
bays.
There are a number of churches you can hike to from Pina, including
Hosti
with 11th-
century frescoes, found on the western slope of the harbour. An
annual cliff-diving com-
petition
also takes place at Vathys as part of the International Diving Festival.
The colourful harbour is lined with restaurants. Stop for lunch at
Galini Taverna
(mains €9; 9am-late; )
. With its checked tablecloths, friendly manager, bou-
gainvillea ceiling and fine view of the harbour it's a peaceful spot for salads, seafood and
grilled meat. The dolmadhes are full of flavour.
Vathys is 13km northeast of Pothia. From here, a blustery new road winds through the
mountains from Emborios, making it a speedier way of reaching the north than via the
west coast.
LEROS ΛΕΡΟΣ
POP 8210
It was said Artemis lived here, and like the Goddess of The Hunt there's something allur-
ingly wild and beautiful about Leros; scattered with beautiful orthodox churches,
dazzling blue coves and whitewashed villages. Capital Platanos, with its striking fort and
