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anchovy, a side of chicken-skin potatoes, and brown-ale pudding with salted-caramel
sauce and cream for dessert. Sunday lunches are all about its wood-fired roast goat or
beef.
MODERN AUSTRALIAN $$$
Estelle
( 03-9489 4609; www.estellebarkitchen.com.au ; 243 High St, Northcote; from $25; 6pm-late Tue-Thu, noon-
late Fri-Sun; 86, Northcote) Classy establishment where you can enjoy the elegant interior
of gleaming tiled floors, or casual rear courtyard with classic Northcote backyard feel.
The menu spans rich French cuisine to Asian-inspired fish dishes. The five-course tasting
menus are popular, matched with wine and starting from $70.
DON'T MISS
MIDDLE EAST UP NORTH
Sydney Rd in Brunswick is Melbourne's Middle Eastern hub. Its busy A1 Lebanese Bakehouse
( www.a1lebanesebakery.com.au ; 643-645 Sydney Rd;
7am-7pm Sun-Wed, to 9pm Thu-Sat;
19,
An-
stey) and alcohol-free Tiba's Restaurant ( www.tibasrestaurant.com.au ; 504 Sydney Rd, Brunswick;
11am-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat;
19,
Brunswick) are worth a trip in themselves, or check out
Middle Eastern-influenced Ray for more of a cafe feel.
Carlton & Around
Since the arrival of Mediterranean immigrants in the 1950s, Lygon St has been synonym-
ous with Italian cuisine, albeit with a twist to suit the Australian palate. Avoid its spruikers
and keep travelling north past Grattan St; some lovely cafes and restaurants lie here and
beyond. The East Brunswick end of Lygon St is doing good things, too.
Small Block
( 03-9381 2244; 130 Lygon St, Brunswick East; mains $8-12; breakfast & lunch; 1, 8) With salvaged
service-station signage and concrete floors plus warm and efficient service, Small Block
acts as a community centre with a neighbourly drop-in and stay-awhile vibe. Big, beauti-
ful breakfasts are worth writing home about.
CAFE $
Ray
(
CAFE $
03-9380 8593; 332 Victoria St, Brunswick; meals $8-19;
7.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5pm Sat & Sun;
;
Brunswick) Its grafittied facade resembles an abandoned house...before opening up
19,
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