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third-generation owners. Its chargrilled calamari with feta salsa and homebaked bread is
divine. There's traditonal music on Monday nights.
Barry
(85 High St, Northcote; breakfasts from $14; 7.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-4pm weekends; 86, West-
garth) New to Northcote, Barry has the whole cafe thing down pat, with the industrial-chic
warehouse interior and communal tables, but its breakfasts are what makes it stand out.
Go with the summery Thai coconut sago pudding with mango, or gin-cured trout, or the
don't-knock-it-till-you-try-it peanut butter and tomatoes on toast sprinkled with more
salted peanuts.
CAFE $$
Cutler & Co
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MODERN AUSTRALIAN $$$
( 03-9419 4888; www.cutlerandco.com.au ; 55 Gertrude St, Fitzroy; mains $39-47; noon-late Fri & Sun, 6pm-
late Mon-Thu; 86) Hyped for all the right reasons, this is another of Andrew McConnell's
restaurants and though its decor might be a little over the top, its attentive, informed staff
and joy-inducing dishes (roast suckling pig, Earl Grey ice-cream and Moonlight Bay
oysters, to name a few) have quickly made this one of Melbourne's best.
Moon Under Water
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MODERN AUSTRALIAN $$$
( 03-9417 7700; www.buildersarmshotel.com.au ; 211 Gertrude St, Fitzroy; 4-course set menu $75 per person;
6-10pm Wed-Sat, noon-3pm & 6-10pm Sun; 86) Another string to Andrew McConnell's bow is
this whitewashed elegant dining room hidden away in the back of the Builders Arms
Hotel. The set menu changes weekly and wine pairing comes at $55 extra per head. Veget-
arian menus are available. If you prefer something more casual and à la carte, check out
the adjoining bistro with its daily rotisserie menu (suckling pig) from 6pm.
Bookings advised at least two weeks in advance.
Commoner
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MODERN BRITISH $$$
( 03-9415 6876; www.thecommoner.com.au ; 122 Johnston St, Fitzroy; mains from $30, 5-course $70;
noon-3pm Fri-Sun, 6pm-late Wed-Sun; 112) On a mission to dispel the myth that British food is
dull, the Commoner succeeds with a sensational, highly seasonal menu that incorporates
classic ingredients into creative dishes. Think pork belly with black pudding, broccoli and
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