Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
linna from Market Square in summer (at least hourly, €6.50 round-trip, tel. 09/
534-806, www.jt-line.fi ) .
Background: The fortress was built by the Swedes with French financial
support in the mid-1700s to counter Russia's rise to power. (Peter the Great
had built his new capital, St. Petersburg, on the Baltic and was eyeing the
West.) Named Sveaborg (“Fortress of Sweden”), the fortress was Sweden's
military pride and joy. With five miles of walls and hundreds of cannons, it
was the second strongest fort of its kind in Europe after Gibraltar. Helsinki,
a small community of 1,500 people before 1750, soon became a boomtown
supporting this grand “Gibraltar of the North.”
The fort, built by more than 10,000 workers, was a huge investment and
stimulated lots of innovation. In the 1760s, it had the world's biggest and most
modern dry dock. It served as a key naval base during a brief Russo-Swedish
warin1788-1790.Butin1808,theRussianstookthe“invincible” fortwithout
a fight—by siege—as a huge and cheap military gift.
Visiting Suomenlinna: Today, Suomenlinna has 1,000 permanent resid-
ents, is home to Finland's Naval Academy, and is most appreciated by locals
for its fine scenic strolls. The island is large—actually, it's four islands con-
nected by bridges—and you and your imagination get free run of the fortific-
ations and dungeon-like chambers. When it's time to eat, you'll find a half-
dozen cafés and plenty of picnic opportunities.
Across from the ferry landing are the Jetty Barracks, housing a convenient
WC, free modern art exhibit, and the pricey Panimo Brewery restaurant. From
here, start your stroll of the island. The garrison church, which was Orthodox
until its 20th-century conversion to Lutheranism, doubled as a lighthouse. A
five-minute walkfromtheferrybringsyoutothevisitorscenter,whichhouses
the worthwhile Suomenlinna Museum, where the island's complete history is
presented in a fascinating 25-minute “multi-vision” show.
From the visitors center, climb uphill to the right into Piper Park, past its
elegant 19th-century café, up and over the ramparts to a surreal swimming
area. See the King's Gate on the far side of the island before heading back to
the ferry.
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