SWEDEN - Scandinavia - page 879

The final exhibit reminds us that the Kronan still sits on the sea floor,
awaiting funding to be raised to the surface. You'll see the diving bell that was
used for very early dives to the site. Today a dedicated crew of scientists and
enthusiasts—including, at times, Sweden's King Carl XVI Gustav—continue
to dive to recover bits and pieces.
For extra credit, head up to Floor 4 for its exhibit on Jenny Nyström, an
early-1900sKalmarartistwhogainedfameforhercuteChristmasillustrations
featuring elves and pixies. You'll see some of her children's books and text-
books, as well as some less commercial, more artistic portraits (with a touch
of Art Nouveau flair). Ponder Nyström's status as a proto-feminist icon: She
was one of the first female artists to support her family by selling her paint-
ings. Nearby are other exhibits and a tiny café serving light lunches.
Maritime History Museum (Sjöfartsmuseum) —This humble, dusty little
exhibit sits a long block beyond and behind the Kalmar County Museum. It's
a jumble of photos of vessels, model boats, charts, and other seafaring bric-
a-brac that traces the nautical story of Kalmar up to modern times. The col-
lection is displayed in three rooms of a former apartment, shuffled between
beautiful porcelain stoves left behind by a previous owner. While it's well-ex-
plained by an English booklet, the exhibit is really interesting only if you sail.
Cost and Hours: 40 kr, mid-June-mid-Sept daily 11:00-16:00, off-season
open only Sun 12:00-16:00, Södra Långgatan 81, tel. [phone].
Sleeping in Kalmar
(7 kr = about $1, country code: 46, area code: 0480)
The TI can nearly always find you a room in a private home (500 kr per
double, 50-kr fee per booking, no breakfast). They can also get you special
last-minute discounts on fancy hotels.
In the Town Center (Kvarnholmen)
$$$ Calmar Stadshotell is a 126-room business hotel filling a historic shell
right on Kalmar's too-big main square, Stortorget. The standard rooms can
be rather faded, but the hotel is busy renovating floor-by-floor. Be sure to
ask for a redone room when you book (standard Sb-925-1,280 kr, standard