Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Kalmar feels like it used to be of strategic importance. In its heyday—back
when the Sweden/Denmark border was just a few miles to the south—they
called Kalmar Castle the “Key to Sweden.” But today Denmark is distant, and
Kalmar is a bustling small city of 62,000 (with 9,000 students in its university
and maritime academy). Kalmar's salty old center, classic castle, and busy wa-
terfront give it a wistful sailor's charm.
History students may remember Kalmar as the place where the treaty es-
tablishing the 1397 Kalmar Union was signed. This “three crowns” treaty
united Norway, Sweden, and Denmark against their common enemy: German
Hanseatic traders. It created a huge kingdom, dominated by Denmark, that las-
ted a bit more than a hundred years. But when the Swede Gustav Vasa came
to power in 1523, Kalmar was rescued from the Danes, the union was dis-
solved...and even the European Union hasn't been able to reunify the Scand-
inavian Peninsula since.
Kalmar town was originally next to the castle but was entirely rebuilt on the
nearby island of Kvarnholmen after a huge fire in 1647. There it was encircled
by giant 17th-century earthworks and bastions, parts of which still survive.
The town center of Kvarnholmen, the charming Old Town, the castle, and
nearby vacation island of Öland are all enjoyable to explore, making Kalmar
Sweden's most appealing stop after Stockholm.
For a relatively small city, Kalmar has a complicated layout; its many small is-
lands are connected to the mainland—and to each other—by bridges. Kalmar
is easily walkable and fun by bike.
The mostly pedestrianized core of town is on the island of Kvarnholmen,
walled and with a grid street plan. The Old Town district is between Kvarnhol-
men and Kalmar Castle, which is on a little island of its own (a 10-minute walk
from Kvarnholmen). The train station, TI, and ugly industrial “new harbor” are
on a manmade extension just south of Kvarnholmen.
