SWEDEN - Scandinavia - page 859

10:00-17:00, Sun 11:00-17:00, shorter hours off-season; tel. [phone],
www.matsjonasson.com .
Orrefors —Once a glassworks with its own proud history, Orrefors (OH-reh-
fohs) is now part of the Kosta empire and plays second fiddle to the flag-
ship brand. While Kosta does more handmade pieces, Orrefors focuses on
machine-made mass production. Orrefors feels drearily industrial and sadly
neglected, but might be worth visiting if you know your glass and have a spe-
cial affinity for their works.
Thedazzling museum displaysitshistoricartpieceschronologically(from
early-20th-century pieces with Art Nouveau flair through works from the
1940s) and includes a “crystal bar.” In the hot shop, visitors observe the work
from platforms. If you're inspired, try one of the glassblowing lessons offered
in July and August (245 kr). English tours are available in summer (but the
Kosta tour is better). Like Kosta, Orrefors' shop sells nearly perfect crystal
seconds at deep discounts.
Cost and Hours: Hot shop—30 kr, 20-kr extra for tour (arrange in ad-
vance, tel. [phone]), Mon-Fri 9:00-15:30, closed Sat-Sun, longer hours in
summer; museum—same hours as hot shop; gift shop—Mon-Fri 10:00-18:00,
Sat 10:00-17:00, Sun 12:00-17:00; tel. [phone], www.orrefors.com .
Non-Glass Attractions
▲Lessebo Hand Paper Mill (Handpappersbruket) —The town of Lessebo
has a 300-year-old paper mill (tucked next to a giant modern one) that's
kept working for visitors to enjoy. If you've never seen handmade paper pro-
duced, this mill is worth a visit. Cotton linters (fibers) are soaked, packed
into a frame, pressed, dried, glazed, and hand-torn into the perfect size and
shape. This paper is coveted for special purposes: top-of-the-line stationery
(for wedding invitations), impossible-to-forge embossed document paper (for
certificates orimportant examinations), andlong-lasting archival use(thecot-
ton fibers ensure the paper will stay pristine for decades).
You can pick up the English brochure and visit on your own, but to see pa-
permaking in action, join a 40-minute English tour with one of the craftsmen