NORWAY - Scandinavia - page 558

each illuminated by a differently colored light, break up the drive visually.
Stop and get out—if no cars are coming, test the acoustics from the center.
The second, immeasurably more scenic, route is a breathtaking one-hour,
30-mile drive that winds over a pass into Aurland, cresting at over 4,000 feet
and offering classic aerial fjord views (it's worth the messy pants). From the
Mannheller-Fodnes ferry, take the first road to the right (to Erdal), then leave
E-68 at Erdal (just west of Lærdal) for the Aurlandsvegen. This road, while
well-maintained, is open only in summer, and narrow and dangerous during
snowstorms (which can hit with a moment's notice, even in warm weather).
You'll enjoy vast and terrifying views of lakes, snowfields, and remote moun-
tain huts and farmsteads on what feels like the top of Norway. As you be-
gin the 12-hairpin zigzag descent to Aurland, you'll reach the new “7”-shaped
Stegastein viewpoint —well worth a stop. The “Snow Road” and viewpoint
are both described on here .
▲From the Lustrafjord to Bergen, via Nærøyfjord and
Gudvangen
Car ferries take tourists between Kaupanger and the Nutshell town of Gud-
vangen through an arm and elbow of the Sognefjord, including the staggering
Nærøyfjord (for details on the ferry, see “Lustrafjord Connections,” earlier).
From Gudvangen, it's a 90-mile drive to Bergen, via Voss (figure about one
hour to Voss, then another two hours into Bergen). This follows essentially
the same route as the Norway in a Nutshell (Gudvangen-Voss bus, Voss-Ber-
gen train). For additional commentary on the journey, see here .
Get off the ferry in Gudvangen and drive up the Nærøy valley past a river.
You'll see the two giant falls and then go uphill through a tunnel. After the
tunnel, look for a sign marked Stalheim and turn right. Stop for a break at the
touristy Stalheim Hotel (described on here ) . Then follow signs marked Stal-
heimskleiva . This incredible road doggedly worms its way downhill back into
the depths of the valley. My brakes started overheating in a few minutes. Take
it easy. As you wind down, you can view the falls from several turnouts.
The road rejoins E-16. You retrace your route through the tunnel and then
continue into a mellower beauty, past lakes and farms, toward Voss. Soon be-