NORWAY - Scandinavia - page 386

Oslo allows hard-drug addicts and prostitutes to mix and mingle in the sta-
tion area. (While it's illegal to buy sex in Norway, those who sell it are not
breaking the law.) Troubled young people come here from small towns in the
countryside for anonymity and community. The two cameras near the top of
the Ruter tower monitor drugdeals. Signs warnthat this isa“monitored area,”
but victimless crimes proceed while violence is minimized.
• Turn your attention to Norway's main drag, called...
Karl Johans Gate: This grand boulevard leads directly from the train sta-
tion to the Royal Palace. The street is named for the French general Jean
Baptiste Bernadotte, who was given a Swedish name, established the current
Swedish dynasty, and ruled as a popular king (1818-1844) during the period
after Sweden took Norway from Denmark.
Walk three blocks up Karl Johans Gate. This stretch is referred to as “Des-
olation Row” by locals because it has no soul, just shops greedily looking to
devour tourist dollars and euros.
• Hook right around the curved old brick structure of an old market and walk
to the...
Oslo Cathedral (Domkirke): This Lutheran church, from 1697, is where
Norway commemorates its royal marriages and deaths. Seventy-seven deaths
were mourned here following the tragic shootings and bombing of July 2011
(see sidebar, here ) . In the grass in front of the cathedral, you may see a semi-
permanent memorial to the victims, consisting of a row of stones shaped like
a heart.
Before going inside, stroll around to the right, behind the church. The
courtyard is lined by a circa-1850 circular row of stalls from an old market.
Rustymeat hooksnowdecorate thelampsofapeaceful café,whichhasquaint
tables around a fountain. The atmospheric Café Bacchus, at the far left end of
the arcade, serves food outside and in a classy café downstairs (light 150-kr
meals, Mon-Fri 11:00-22:00, Sat 12:00-21:00, closed Sun, salads, good cakes,
coffee, tel. [phone]).
Now go around the other side to face the cathedral's main door (under
the tall tower). Look for the cathedral's cornerstone (right of entrance), a
thousand-year-old carving from Oslo's first and long-gone cathedral showing