DENMARK - Scandinavia - page 281

fart sign—which tells you “your speed”), take the Vodrup Klint turnoff to the
right.
Vodrup Klint: A road leads downhill (with a well-signed jog to the right)
to dead-end at a rugged bluff called Vodrup Klint (WC, picnic benches). If
I were a pagan, I'd worship here—the sea, the wind, and the chilling view.
Notice how the land steps in sloppy slabs down to the sea. When saturated
with water, the slabs of clay that make up the land here get slick, and entire
chunks can slide.
Hike down to the foamy beach (where you can pick up some flint, chalk,
and wild thyme). While the wind at the top could drag a kite-flyer, the beach
below can be ideal for sunbathing. Because Ærø is warmer and drier than the
rest of Denmark, this island is home to plants and animals found nowhere else
in the country. This southern exposure is the warmest area. Germany is dead
ahead.
• Backtrack 200 yards and follow the signs to Tranderup . On the way, you'll
pass a lovely pond famous for its bell frogs and happy little duck houses.
Popping out in Tranderup, you can backtrack (left) about 300 yards to get
to the traditional Vindeballe Kro —a handy inn for a stop if you're hungry or
thirsty (30-45-kr lunches served daily July-mid-Aug 12:00-14:00, 150-200-kr
dinners served daily year-round 18:00-21:00, tel. [phone]).
If you're tired or if the weather is turning bad, you can shortcut from here
back to Ærøskøbing: Go down the lane across the street from the Vindeballe
Kro, and you'll zip quickly downhill across the island to the dike just east of
Borgnæs; turn right and retrace your steps back into town.
But there's much more to see. To continue our pedal, head on into...
Tranderup: Still following signs for Tranderup , stay on Tranderupgade
parallel to the big road through town. You'll pass a lovely farm and a potato
stand. At the main road, turn right. At the Ærøskøbing turnoff (another chance
to bail out and head home), side-trip 100 yards left to the big stone (com-
memorating the return of the island to Denmark from Germany in 1750) and
a grand island panorama. Seattleites might find Claus Clausen's rock interest-
ing (in the picnic area, next to WC). It's a memorial to an extremely obscure
pioneer from the state of Washington.