Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Leaving Ærøskøbing: You'll see the first of many U-shaped farms, typ-
ical of Denmark. The three sides block the wind and store cows, hay, and
people. Gård (farm) shows up in many local surnames.
At Øsemarksvej, bike along the coast in the protection of the dike built
in 1856 to make the once-salty swampland to your left farmable. While the
weak soil is good for hay and little else, they get the most out of it. Each
winter, certain grazing areas flood with seawater. (Some locals claim this
makes their cows produce fatter milk and meat.) As you roll along the dike,
the land on your left is about eight feet below sea level. The little white pump
house—alone in the field—is busy each spring and summer.
• At the T-junction, go right (over the dike) toward...
Borgnæs: The traditional old “straw house” (50 yards down, on left) is a
café and shop selling fresh farm products. Just past that, a few roadside tables
sell farm goodies on the honor system. Borgnæs is a cluster of modern sum-
mer houses. In spite of huge demand, a weak economy, and an aging popula-
tion, development like this is no longer allowed.
• Keep to the right (passing lots of wheat fields); at the next T-junction, turn
right, following signs for Ø. Bregningemark (don't turn off for Vindeballe ).
After a secluded beach, head inland (direction: Ø. Bregninge). Pass the is-
land's only water mill, and climb uphill over the island's 2,700-inch-high
summit toward Bregninge. The tallest point on Ærø is called Synneshøj
(probably means “Seems High” and it sure does—if you're even a bit out of
shape, you'll feel every one of those inches).
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