DENMARK - Scandinavia - page 207

Nyhavn 'sharborcanalislinedwithatouristystripofrestaurantssetalong-
side its classic sailboats. Here thriving crowds are served mediocre, over-
priced food in a great setting. On any sunny day, if you want steak and fries
(120 kr) and a 50-kr beer, this can be fun. On Friday and Saturday, the strip
becomes the longest bar in the world.
Kompagnistræde is home to a changing cast of great little eateries. Run-
ning parallel to the Strøget, this street has fewer tourists and lower rent, and
encourages places to compete creatively for the patronage of local diners.
Gråbrødretorv (“Grey Friars' Square”) is perhaps the most popular
square in the old center for a meal. It's like a food court, especially in good
weather. Choose from Italian, French, or Danish. Two respected steakhouses
are Jensen's Bøfhus (100-kr burgers, 120-220-kr main dishes) and the pricier
Bøf & Ost (170-250-kr main dishes). Skildpadden (“The Turtle”) is a stu-
dent hit, with make-it-yourself sandwiches (69 kr, choose the type of bread,
salami, and cheese you want) and a 49-kr salad bar, plus draft beer (30 kr, or
22krafter16:00—sortofareversehappyhour).It'sinacozycellarwiththree
little tables on the lively square (Mon-Fri 11:30-22:30, Sat-Sun 11:30-20:30,
Gråbrødretorv 9, tel. [phone]).
Istedgade and the surrounding streets behind the train station (just above
the Meatpacking District) are home to an assortment of inexpensive ethnic
restaurants. You will find numerous kebab, Chinese, Thai, and pizza places.
The area can be a bit seedy, especially right behind the station, but walk a few
blocks away to take your pick of inexpensive, ethnic eateries frequented by
locals.
Copenhagen Connections
By Train or Bus
From Copenhagen by Train to: Hillerød/Frederiksborg (6/hour, 40
minutes on S-tog), Roskilde (1-3/hour, 30 minutes), Humlebæk (Louisiana
modern-art museum; 4/hour, 36 minutes), Helsingør (3/hour, 50 minutes),
Odense (3/hour, 1.75 hours), Ærøskøbing (5/day, 2.75 hours to Svendborg
with a transfer in Odense, then 1.25-hour ferry crossing to Ærøskøbing—see