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The Latest Culinary Phe-noma-non
Foodies visiting Denmark probably already know that Copenhagen is
home to the planet's top-rated restaurant. In 2010 and 2011, San Pel-
legrino and Restaurant magazine named noma the “Best Restaurant in
the World.” With the closure of El Bulli near Barcelona in 2011, noma
has emerged as the reservation to get in the foodie universe. Chef René
Redzepi is a pioneer in the burgeoning “New Nordic” school of cooking,
which combines modern nouvelle cuisine and molecular gastronomy
techniques with locally sourced (and, in some cases, foraged) ingredients
from Denmark and other Nordic lands. So, while they use sophisticated
cooking methods, they replace the predictable French and Mediterranean
ingredients with Nordic ones. The restaurant's name comes from the
phrase nordisk mad (Nordic food).
But noma, which is located at the northern edge of the trendy Chris-
tianshavn district (Strandgade 93, tel. 32 96 32 97), is not cheap. The
seven-course menu runs 1,500 kr; accompanying wines add 950 kr to the
bill. A couple going for the whole shebang is looking at spending close
to $800. And even if you're willing to take the plunge, you have to plan
ahead—noma is booked up around three months ahead. Check their web-
site ( www.noma.dk ) for the latest procedure; you'll likely need to call on
a specific date, at 10:00 in the morning Copenhagen time, about three
months before your desired reservation...and hope you get through. You
can also put your name on their waiting list, using their online form.
If you can't commit that far out (or don't want to spend that much),
many of the top restaurants in Copenhagen (including Kødbyens Fiseke-
bar,listedon here ) arerunbyformerchefsfromnoma—givingyouatleast
a taste of culinary greatness.
Bastionen & Løven, at the little windmill (Lille Mølle), serves gourmet
Danish nouveau cuisine with a French inspiration from a small but fresh
menu, on a Renoir terrace or in its Rembrandt interior. The classiest, dressiest,
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