DENMARK - Scandinavia - page 195

cess, self-serve laundry, Vejlands Allé 200, tel. [phone], fax 32 52 27
08, www.danhostelcopenhagen.dk , [e-mail] ). To get from
downtown to the hostel, take the Metro (Metro: Bella Center, then 10-minute
walk).
Eating in Copenhagen
Cheap Meals
For a quick lunch, try a smørrebrød, a pølse, or a picnic. Finish it off with a
pastry.
Smørrebrød
Denmark's 300-year-old tradition of open-face sandwiches survives. Find a
smørrebrød take-out shop and choose two or three that look good (about 20
kr each). You'll get them wrapped and ready for a park bench. Add a cold
drink, and you have a fine, quick, and very Danish lunch. Tradition calls for
three sandwich courses: herring first, then meat, and then cheese. Downtown,
you'll find these handy local alternatives to Yankee fast-food chains. They
range from splurges to quick stop-offs.
Between Copenhagen University and Rosenborg Castle
(See “Copenhagen Hotels & Restaurants” map, here .)
My three favorite smørrebrød places are particularly handy when connecting
your sightseeing between the downtown Strøget core and Rosenborg Castle.
Restaurant Schønnemann is the foodies' choice—it has been written
up in international magazines and frequently wins awards for “Best Lunch
in Copenhagen.” It's a cozy cellar restaurant crammed with small
tables—according to the history on the menu, people “gather here in intense
togetherness.” The sand on the floor evokes a bygone era when passing
traders would leave their horses out on the square while they lunched here.
You'll need to reserve to get a table, and you'll pay a premium for their
smørrebrød (50-130 kr). At these prices, the sandwiches had better be a cut